OT: Any lawn nuts here?

[UC313]

Pre emergent is the best bet for crabgrass. That means spring time only. Crab grass will grow in the heat like were having while regular grass wont. I say wait until spring and use some scotts halts.

 

[arch]

The Lawn Care Nut

 

[temery]

but in my experience not strong enough unless the crabgrass is young.

Define 'young'.

 

[Chief00]

After reseed use plenty of lime. It’s cheap and makes the fertilizer more efficient. You will get a rich green look. Get lime rich in calcium and magnesium.

 

[sledog]

Must use good / hearty grass seed. Most pop brands I've tried did not work well.

I used Pearls Premium grass seed 1-2 years ago to reseed parts of the lawn that never seem to grow well. Pearls supposedly grows very deep roots and is dense so weeds have to room to elboe in. Also, grows slowly so need not cut that often, and after established, much less water. Ain't genetics great! Had a chat with CL82 who also used it, I think.

Anyhow, in spring grass was GREEN GREEN compared to rest of lawn, and while the drought season is now here (town is on water restrictions yet again), still doing really well. Fertilized it in late March with fertlz + anti-crab, and applied some of the calcium / bio 'lime' alternative in April, and it looks great. Did not measure pH of soil. Will use more this August.

Their website is great for the details.

www.pearlspremium.com

 

[Dream Jobbed 2.0]

Very likely they seeded at the wrong time of year. Young grass can't compete with crabgrass.

Crabgrass is an annual that self seeds at one time of year; late spring. It grows aggressively and will shade out and rob nutrients from young grass. Using a pre-emergent will also kill newly sprouted grass. The trick is to get the grass to mature enough so you don't kill it along with the crabgrass seed.

If you can get the grass to fully establish and grow thick it will eventually shade out the crabgrass. Reseed in fall and fertilize as needed.

That said, my lawn looks like hell. I hate having to constantly maintain anything other than my disposition.

Well here’s the lawn nut

 

[Devland]

Take/send soil samples to UConn soil test lab. The results will give you a good idea what you need to do to your lawn. My results came back and told me my soil was too base. I had been heavily liming every year. It turns out I was over liming. I think the cost was $12.

 

[Bryan Lord]

Watering your lawn is public masterbation.

 

[Da_Aisijimo_Gou]

Your best off rounding up the entire area before the crabgrass seeds, regrade it and planting it all over again.

Without growing a 3rd eye or killing the neighbors' pets, anyone effectively used the new RoundUp for Lawns product? If yes, would it help @temery with his crabgrass? Or, is it just too late by this point in summer with increasingly more 90+ degree days? @NC_Uconn_Fan

 

[huskyrob1]

I love my new pond, but those who delivered the rocks and stones tore the hell out of my lawn. They filled and reseeded, but nothing but crabgrass is growing.

Can crabgrass be killed this time of year (without killing the actual lawn)?

No you can't. You'll have to wait until the early spring. Unlike normal grass which goes dormant at the first frost in fall, frost completely kills off crabgrass plants, EXCEPT for the millions of seeds. You might notice in the early winter after a heavy rain, where there was crabgrass is now a muddy mess because now there's nothing there to hold the soil together. Start raking and seeding your lawn in early March, even late February if you have some warm days, completely rake out all the dead crabgrass roots as best you can, seed the area half fescue and half Kentucky bluegrass. Rake the seeds in with a good dark top soil, ten bags ought to be enough. Then wait, the important thing is to help your new grass get an early spring jump on crabgrass. Even though you have raked out the crabgrass as best you could, the crabgrass seeds are still there, but they don't germinate until the soil temperature hits 65F, by that time your early spring work will have paid off, but you're not done, watering your new grass is extremely important to help it choke out any crabgrass that does germinate. If you don't water and fertilize, the the crabgrass will eventually win out again over a few years. Scott's sells a good early spring fertilizer that inhibits crabgrass germination while giving your grass a good shot of the nitrogen it needs.

 

[Robertelamin]

Get a lawn service

 

[mauconnfan]

Get a lawn service

I have Weed Man and they haven't been as good since they actually sent me a "man". We had stephanie for 2 years and she was really good lawn looked great now this guy seems to be watering down his products to ensure he makes more money as i understand that's how they get paid. True Green sucked prior to these guys as did one other prior to them. Careful in choosing I believe ultimately it's up to the person in charge of taking care of your lawn no matter where he or she is working.

 

[Robertelamin]

I have Weed Man and they haven't been as good since they actually sent me a "man". We had stephanie for 2 years and she was really good lawn looked great now this guy seems to be watering down his products to ensure he makes more money as i understand that's how they get paid. True Green sucked prior to these guys as did one other prior to them. Careful in choosing I believe ultimately it's up to the person in charge of taking care of your lawn no matter where he or she is working.

I use Tru Green. My only complaint with them is they wait too long in the fall to over seed. One time they came in November when mostly all the leaves had fallen. I got my money back but I discontinued that part of the service.

 

[Exit 4]

No you can't. You'll have to wait until the early spring. Unlike normal grass which goes dormant at the first frost in fall, frost completely kills off crabgrass plants, EXCEPT for the millions of seeds. You might notice in the early winter after a heavy rain, where there was crabgrass is now a muddy mess because now there's nothing there to hold the soil together. Start raking and seeding your lawn in early March, even late February if you have some warm days, completely rake out all the dead crabgrass roots as best you can, seed the area half fescue and half Kentucky bluegrass. Rake the seeds in with a good dark top soil, ten bags ought to be enough. Then wait, the important thing is to help your new grass get an early spring jump on crabgrass. Even though you have raked out the crabgrass as best you could, the crabgrass seeds are still there, but they don't germinate until the soil temperature hits 65F, by that time your early spring work will have paid off, but you're not done, watering your new grass is extremely important to help it choke out any crabgrass that does germinate. If you don't water and fertilize, the the crabgrass will eventually win out again over a few years. Scott's sells a good early spring fertilizer that inhibits crabgrass germination while giving your grass a good shot of the nitrogen it needs.

Lots of good advice in this chain overall. My experience is similar to Rob’s. The battle against crab grass is won in March. You have to rake it out then put down the pre emergent and reseed with good stuff. It takes two springs of the process to turn around most lawns. And it will help to pull crab grass out by the root if the size of the area you at dealing with us reasonable, but pulling by root only is effective if combined with the March pre emergent.

 

[jibsey]

I think the best way to guarantee a good lawn is to do something that is very expensive when putting it in which is to have at least 6 inches of high grade topsoil underneath it. This is harder to do than it it appears because a lot of the topsoil sold is not good stuff. All the chemicals around cannot make up for that. Number 2 of course is water and being on a well with a large lawn makes it near impossible. When you build a house the last thing on the list is topsoil for most people which is understandable but it eventually rears it’s head later on as you fight the lawn.

 

[Da_Aisijimo_Gou]

Get a good lawn service

FIFY

 

[NC_Uconn_Fan]

Ok, I'm done babbling: How often should I water, keeping in mind my goal is to help the wanted grass outcompete the crabgrass? The $50 I currently spend every six months won't get the job done, but $2,500 isn't going to happen. I need a Goldilocks answer.

Once the crabgrass has started to germinate, you need to kill it off or it will outcompete your desired grass. Frequent light waterings will help weeds more than your lawn.

Your lawn likes to get 1" of water once per week, either by rain or irrigation, ideally all at once. Deep infrequent watering encourages deeper roots and keeps weed pressure lower.

Hotter weather and or sandy soil may require more frequent watering. See how much your irrigation system is putting out by placing tuna fish cans through the yard, a full tuna can will equal 1".

 

[NC_Uconn_Fan]

After reseed use plenty of lime. It’s cheap and makes the fertilizer more efficient. You will get a rich green look. Get lime rich in calcium and magnesium.

No offense, but that is poor advice. A good question is whether you or anyone really need lime in the first place. Many people apply it regularly regardless of their lawn's pH, I used to as well, figuring it's just a "good thing" to do.

A good local soil test from UCONN or Umass will tell you if you need or not. I have 35,000 sqft of grass, I only apply what my lawn needs, saves $$ and time.

 

[uconnfan68]

No offense, but that is poor advice. A good question is whether you or anyone really need lime in the first place. Many people apply it regularly regardless of their lawn's pH, I used to as well, figuring it's just a "good thing" to do.

A good local soil test from UCONN or Umass will tell you if you need or not. I have 35,000 sqft of grass, I only apply what my lawn needs, saves $$ and time.

Push mower.

 

[temery]

Lots of good advice in this chain overall. My experience is similar to Rob’s. The battle against crab grass is won in March. You have to rake it out then put down the pre emergent and reseed with good stuff. It takes two springs of the process to turn around most lawns. And it will help to pull crab grass out by the root if the size of the area you at dealing with us reasonable, but pulling by root only is effective if combined with the March pre emergent.

At what point is it too late to put down a preemergent?

 

[NC_Uconn_Fan]

At what point is it too late to put down a preemergent?

For crabgrass, you want to apply when the soil temps reach 50 degrees. A good indicator of that is you will see the Forsythias start to bloom.

The best and most commonly used/recommended are Dithiopyr (Dimension), Prodiamine (Barricade). You are recommended to do a second application 60 to 90 days after the first for extended control. If you miss this target window, it's too late to stop ceabgrass from germinating.

Annual weeds, like crabgrass, are best controlled by breaking their natural cycle of germination, growth and seeding. You do this 2 ways, first is to prevent them from germinating in the first place (preemergent). The second is by killing them after they germinate, but before they seed (herbicides).

 

[Chief00]

No offense, but that is poor advice. A good question is whether you or anyone really need lime in the first place. Many people apply it regularly regardless of their lawn's pH, I used to as well, figuring it's just a "good thing" to do.

A good local soil test from UCONN or Umass will tell you if you need or not. I have 35,000 sqft of grass, I only apply what my lawn needs, saves $$ and time.

Ok - on a non sport matter - Chief will clean things up and then get back off the circuit.

My advice was for the 95% of the folks here who post from the Northeast/Southeastern US. As you can see from the map at the link below / all is Red Soil type with relatively high acidity. True within this area there are some local variations for various reasons and a test is always good - but as a long term poster - Chief seeks to understand the audience before he posts. How much time, complication and money are they willing to invest? Therefore, how many are likely to get the tests? Then give advice that can be easily implemented.

With bags of lime costing $3 to $4.50 and soil tests over $12 - moderately using one or two bags too many once a year won’t kill your bank account. The likelihood in CT that you will need lime is extremely high. If one lives in Northern Africa or sections of the Mideast your advice was more appropriate.

Therefore, given all that, Chief's Advice (tm) was excellent and appropriate for the masses.
Soil pH - Wikipedia

 

[cohenzone]

Sold my house after 45 years of lawn maintenance. Don’t miss the lawn or the mower or Scott’s Weed n’ Feed at all.

 

[NC_Uconn_Fan]

With bags of lime costing $3 to $4.50 and soil tests over $12 - moderately using one or two bags too many once a year won’t kill your bank account. The likelihood in CT that you will need lime is extremely high. If one lives in Northern Africa or sections of the Mideast your advice was more appropriate.

Therefore, given all that, Chief's Advice (tm) was excellent and appropriate for the masses.
Soil pH - Wikipedia

My advice was to get a soil test to see if you need lime. Your advice is "throw it down because its cheap". Okay.

 

[Jaker]

plow it all under, cover in a thick bed of woodchips, you are good to go