I live in SoCal so sprinkler systems are a must. I can give you some advice on valves and sprinklers - a lot depends on the size of your lawn. If you water by hand on a regular basis, I would think a good sprinkler system would be more efficient, so it shouldn't be a problem on your water bill. If you don't water now, any system will cost you more.@jleves do you have a sprinkler system?
I've been thinking about putting one in before reseeding the lawn.
The cost of the system isn't much. I'll rent the channel digger, and the only cost would be the hardware. But I'm curious on what the hit to my water bill would be?
I live in SoCal so sprinkler systems are a must. I can give you some advice on valves and sprinklers - a lot depends on the size of your lawn. If you water by hand on a regular basis, I would think a good sprinkler system would be more efficient, so it shouldn't be a problem on your water bill. If you don't water now, any system will cost you more.
Next time be sure to put peat on top of the seeds. Many times people put hay on top to protect the seeds from the sun and birds, but hay is full of weeds. Sterile peat is the best. It's more expensive but prevents many headaches.I'm going start from scratch in the fall, but I'll be putting in a sprinkler system.
Seems as though any time I have work done, their trucks tear up my lawn. Their cosmetic repair look ok for a while, but the damage seems to be premature. Really starting to tick me off.
Your lawn needs nitrogen. Get a fertilizer with s very high nitrogen number (first of the three numbers. )Any advice for white clover? I let my lawn grow out for two weeks to keep from watering it as much and had too many damn bees after those little white flowers.
Thanks.
Any advice for white clover? I let my lawn grow out for two weeks to keep from watering it as much and had too many damn bees after those little white flowers.
Thanks.
Most likely hydroseeding. If your soil is properly prepared and you can water 3x day for about 10 to 14 days, it has really good results. Way cheaper than sod and a better route system more quickly. The key is making sure you've killed all the weeds and prepared the soil with good amendments and keep the stuff wet for a couple of weeks. Then you have to keep it up with fertilizer and weed killers.
For a decent sized front lawn, I sprayed the entire lawn with RoundUp waited a week and then tilled it, pulling up all the dead stuff. Then I added a decent amount of amendment (chicken crap, bat guano, rich soil) and tilled it again, leveled it and had them spray the hydroseed. A month later, I had the best lawn in the neighborhood.
Sure. It would be entertaining the see the havoc you wreak among the uninitiated.Just the pool. I will never leave the men's side
I'm plying my tradecraft away from the tyrannical despot.
You want a link? I'm killing it.
Any advice for white clover? I let my lawn grow out for two weeks to keep from watering it as much and had too many damn bees after those little white flowers.
Thanks.
What's the best way to get rid of grass you don't want? My front lawn has, to the best of my knowledge and researching online, has patches of tall fescue mixed in. They're the long, thick blades of grass that stick out in all sorts of directions and are pretty ugly. It almost look like crabgrass but I'm almost positive it's not a weed, as I've run weed and feed on my lawn twice and haven't put a dent into this stuff while killing a bunch of other weeds I had. Anybody ever deal with this? I tried using Roundup in spots, but it only killed some of it and killed a bunch of good grass along with it. Am I stuck pulling it all out by hand?
Bees not when they sting you. I know clover produces it's own nitrogen which greens up your lawn, but I hate those damn little white flowers.You know bees are good right? Plus clover is good for your lawn.
I had an irrigation installed for about $90-$100/head. didn't include the plumber cost to hook up per town regulations (back-flow)... I want to say that was about $500 but I don't recall.@jleves do you have a sprinkler system?
I've been thinking about putting one in before reseeding the lawn.
The cost of the system isn't much. I'll rent the channel digger, and the only cost would be the hardware. But I'm curious on what the hit to my water bill would be?
There really isn't any selective herbicides for unwanted grass except round up. Herbicides like week b gon, weed and feed or other 3 way herbicide mixes only target weeds, not grass. If mixed properly, round up should kill any grass in a week. What you most likely seeing in your lawn is dallisgrass.
Post a pic. It could be one of the older wider bladed fescues like kentucky 31. Most of the newer tall fescues are not as wide and a bit softer.I looked up dallisgrass, and while it's close I still don't think that's it. Googling tall fescue is the closest thin I've found. It's those blades of grass that you would pull out as a kid and use as a whistle, if you ever did that.
Look up Drive XLR8 herbicide. It will knock out the crabgrass and not injure your lawn. Read the directions for daytime temps when applying. You can try ortho weed b gon with crabgrass control too, but in my experience not strong enough unless the crabgrass is young.
I love my new pond, but those who delivered the rocks and stones tore the hell out of my lawn. They filled and reseeded, but nothing but crabgrass is growing.
Can crabgrass be killed this time of year (without killing the actual lawn)?
Pictures in a few days, but for now, I have to say my lawn is 80% there. Dethatching and overseesing in the fall made a huge difference. I have dropped preemergent crabgrass killer per manufacturers recommendations, along with fertilizer, weed killer, etc, and plan to follow though until November.
Here's my problem: I have noticed a bit of crabgrass popping up recently, mostly along the end of my driveway, and bordering the road. In addition, I have several bare spots on my lawn, mostly due to my cat stalking, digging up, and befriending moles.
I can reseed the bare spots, but historically, a bit of crabgrass now = a ton of crabgrass later.
My question now is about watering. I put in an irrigation system, and can set watering on any schedule needed. I had been doing 20 minutes once a week per zone, and my lawn looks really good.
I went a little bit old school, and knocked on the door of the owner of the best lawn in town. After he asked his daughter what grades I gave her in science, he was very helpful.
Bottom line: He said 20 minutes is barely a tease, without weekly rain. He said his irrigation system is set 45 minutes twice a week for heads watering 180 degrees or less, and one hour twice a week for anything greater than 180 degrees.
My next question was, "what's your water bill?"
$2500/year.
I currently pay $50, twice a year (the town minimum), and use rain barrels to recover water from my roof. In the Spring a neighbor lets me overflow pump water from his 1/2 pond after it rains.
Ok, I'm done babbling: How often should I water, keeping in mind my goal is to help the wanted grass outcompete the crabgrass? The $50 I currently spend every six months won't get the job done, but $2,500 isn't going to happen. I need a Goldilocks answer.