Snowblower Help | The Boneyard

Snowblower Help

DaveHuskiesFan

DaveHuskiesFan

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So I bought a Troy-Bilt snowblower at Home Depot this morning. My dads had the same one for 10+ years so I felt comfortable with the brand.

My problem comes with the Choke. When I start the engine with the choke fully open it runs fine. It even runs fine when I close it almost fully. However, when I close the choke, the engine sputters and then turns off. I tried this for about an hour today with no resolution. I let it run pretty long in the different choke stages all with the same result when I close the choke.

The snowblower has gas and oil is fine. Obviously this shouldn’t be happening with a brand new engine so I’mmost likely going to return it. Just wanted to see if anyone has any possible solutions before I do that. Thanks!
 
I did not close the choke completely when the engine is warmed up. I let the choke open a bit and it's been working for me. There is an adjustment for the cable but I never bothered . Did your dad's have the same problem?
 
warbler13 said:
I did not close the choke completely when the engine is warmed up. I let the choke open a bit and it's been working for me. There is an adjustment for the cable but I never bothered . Did your dad's have the same problem?
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So you operate it with the choke partially open and not completely closed? My dads did not have the same problem. The operator manual says to close the choke completely after starting it.
 
The choke restricts the air flow to the carburetor. The choke should be closed with a cold engine to assist in starting and opened up as the engine warms up. I have a problem when it is real wet out and water gets in the ignition and it won't shut off. I close the choke until it starts to sputter a eventually stalls.
 
How to Start a Snowblower With a Choke
The choke on a gasoline-powered snowblower engine is designed to help the motor start when it is cold. The choke works by shutting the air intake to produce a richer gas mixture in the engine's combustion chamber. Operating the choke can be counter-intuitive, especially if it's been six months since you last used the equipment.

Step 1
Set the choke on full (which means closed).
Step 2
Start the engine according to the manufacturer's instructions, including three to four pumps on the fuel primer before pulling the ignition cord or pressing the starter.
Step 3
Decrease the amount of choke slowly over several minutes by adjusting the choke lever until the engine warms up.

Step 4
Open the choke all the way once the engine is running smoothly. Do not have any choke once the engine is operating normally; this will cause excessive fuel consumption and may flood the engine, causing it to shut down.
 
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I think you should return it. May have some carburetor issues. Not a good sign if it's brand new.

I have a 4 year old Troy Built and I don't have to do this. Leaving the choke open can lead to flooding the engine.
 
ZenConn said:
I think you should return it. May have some carburetor issues. Not a good sign if it's brand new.

I have a 4 year old Troy Built and I don't have to do this. Leaving the choke open can lead to flooding the engine.
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Yep. Those carburetors have some very delicate plastic at the ends of the linkage. I had similar problem for years. When i finally took it apart there was a little piece of plastic broken. I bought a new carburetor and replaced it. With yours being new, i would return it or make them make it run properly. I wouldn't touch it myself for fear of voiding the warranty.
 
DaveHuskiesFan said:
So I bought a Troy-Bilt snowblower at Home Depot this morning. My dads had the same one for 10+ years so I felt comfortable with the brand.

My problem comes with the Choke. When I start the engine with the choke fully open it runs fine. It even runs fine when I close it almost fully. However, when I close the choke, the engine sputters and then turns off. I tried this for about an hour today with no resolution. I let it run pretty long in the different choke stages all with the same result when I close the choke.

The snowblower has gas and oil is fine. Obviously this shouldn’t be happening with a brand new engine so I’mmost likely going to return it. Just wanted to see if anyone has any possible solutions before I do that. Thanks!
Expand ...

I've had my Troy-built for 16 years, runs like new. When starting put the throttle speed to full and turn the choke to full rich (closed) setting. Once it fires up turn it slowly to a leaner setting. You will hear the engine find the sweet spot. To shut off the engine, turn the choke to full lean (open) and the throttle speed to zero.

The only problem I ever had with mine is getting the primer button right. It used to flood on anything more than 2 pumps, but after it's first and only service after 10 years, it required 5-6 to start at all. Still runs like a champ and throws as well as much bigger units. (Mine is a 5+hp 24" Storm model)
 
It actually sounds like you are reversing things rereading your OP. A fully closed choke floods and shuts off the engine as stated above. Go try and run it with the choke fully open once it starts. Once the blower is warm if you have to shut it off to do something with a shovel etc you should not need to use the primer bulb or choke to restart it. Just turn up the throttle and use the pull cord.
 
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Was thinking about buying an electric model because it seems like everyone has a million issues with gas blowers and I only have a small driveway and sidewalk.

Terrible idea? Not enough power? Tech not there yet?
 
auror said:
Was thinking about buying an electric model because it seems like everyone has a million issues with gas blowers and I only have a small driveway and sidewalk.

Terrible idea? Not enough power? Tech not there yet?
Expand ...
I’ve never had an electric one but hey aren’t as powerful imo. My view on snowblowers is like others view on TVs Bigger and more powerful is better. Even if your driveway isn’t big if u get a 2 ft snowfall and your little electric one only will do 6 inches what’s the point is having it.

When I lived in NJ I had the best machine Honda made. Lots of time i didn’t need all that power. But it worked fine e on 6 inches. When we got 26 inches. It worked fine. So fine my neighbor borrowed it because his couldn’t handle it
 
jdb50 said:
It actually sounds like you are reversing things rereading your OP. A fully closed choke floods and shuts off the engine as stated above. Go try and run it with the choke fully open once it starts. Once the blower is warm if you have to shut it off to do something with a shovel etc you should not need to use the primer bulb or choke to restart it. Just turn up the throttle and use the pull cord.
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Yep this is exactly what I was doing. I’m terrible with engines but this may be a new low for me.
 
DaveHuskiesFan said:
Yep this is exactly what I was doing. I’m terrible with engines but this may be a new low for me.
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Don't worry Dave it is how we learn. The good part is you wanted to be prepared before the storm. Now you are! Having this storm run into Tuesday AM is not a good way to start snow season. :(
 
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Another tip at the end of the season. Siphon as much gas as u can from the fuel tank. Then start it up and close the fuel line. let it run till it starts sputtering/stops U don’t want gas in the carburetor all summer it can gunk up the jets. By draining excess fuel for the tank first u are able to put in fresh gas next year. If u don’t want to do that. At least add a fuel stabilizer
 
NJHusky said:
I’ve never had an electric one but hey aren’t as powerful imo. My view on snowblowers is like others view on TVs Bigger and more powerful is better. Even if your driveway isn’t big if u get a 2 ft snowfall and your little electric one only will do 6 inches what’s the point is having it.

When I lived in NJ I had the best machine Honda made. Lots of time i didn’t need all that power. But it worked fine e on 6 inches. When we got 26 inches. It worked fine. So fine my neighbor borrowed it because his couldn’t handle it
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^^^ this
Bigger and more powerful is always better.
 
Have a big Honda.First buy from a reputable dealer who has an experienced service department. Since you havent done that take it back and get your money back I choke to start then pull the cord-no electric. Take the choke off and run it full throttle as you are plowing. Mine.is about 10 years old.
 
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My Troy Built has an electric start (and also a manual pull start). That electric start saved me a bunch of money because the manual pull start cord snapped in half so it's basically unusable.
 
uconnfan68 said:
You’ll need a pail to bail out your house soon.
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Animals will be pairing up 2 by 2, before I have to worry about that.

But, after this season , I will miss seeing the Huskies when they play USF. It was there where Senhor made his ESPN debut, as some may remember.
 
NJHusky said:
Another tip at the end of the season. Siphon as much gas as u can from the fuel tank. Then start it up and close the fuel line. let it run till it starts sputtering/stops U don’t want gas in the carburetor all summer it can gunk up the jets. By draining excess fuel for the tank first u are able to put in fresh gas next year. If u don’t want to do that. At least add a fuel stabilizer
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Even easier - use a fuel additive. Not the winterizing ones, but Briggs all-of-the-time stuff. Never had a problem in even finickiest and least used engines of mine
 
NJHusky said:
Another tip at the end of the season. Siphon as much gas as u can from the fuel tank. Then start it up and close the fuel line. let it run till it starts sputtering/stops U don’t want gas in the carburetor all summer it can gunk up the jets. By draining excess fuel for the tank first u are able to put in fresh gas next year. If u don’t want to do that. At least add a fuel stabilizer
Expand ...
I learned this the hard way with my power washer. Now put TruFuel in for the winter. Same with Snow Blower in the summer.
 
DaveHuskiesFan said:
So I bought a Troy-Bilt snowblower at Home Depot this morning. My dads had the same one for 10+ years so I felt comfortable with the brand.

My problem comes with the Choke. When I start the engine with the choke fully open it runs fine. It even runs fine when I close it almost fully. However, when I close the choke, the engine sputters and then turns off. I tried this for about an hour today with no resolution. I let it run pretty long in the different choke stages all with the same result when I close the choke.

The snowblower has gas and oil is fine. Obviously this shouldn’t be happening with a brand new engine so I’mmost likely going to return it. Just wanted to see if anyone has any possible solutions before I do that. Thanks!
Expand ...
Bring it back immediately. Anything with the Troy Bilt name on it being sold today is crap. If however it's an original Troy Bilt built in Troy NY or Syracuse, before the company went out of business and sold the name to MTD, then it's built to last 100 years. If you want quality parts and workmanship, don't buy any Troy Bilt products built after 2001. If you can find a used Troy Bilt roto tiller, tractor, or snow blower, built by Troy Bilt-Gardenway, pre 2001, buy it if the price is right. I bought a Troy Bilt lawn tractor with the snow blade attachment in 1997 and it still runs like a top. Except for the body shell it's cast iron everything, engine block, drivetrain, etc. If you want to buy something brand new nowadays with the same quality go John Deere or Kubota, but buy direct from the company, not from HD or Lowe's, those JD and Kubota products are also crap, built for those chains.


pressurewashr.com

How The Troy-Bilt Brand Was Built - PRESSURE WASHR

Troy-Bilt's history goes back more than 80 years to the early days of home gardening. Before Troy-Bilt was Rototiller, Inc., a rotary tiller manufacturer
pressurewashr.com pressurewashr.com
 
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