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Wales and Ireland family travel questions

8893

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I rented an automatic a couple of years ago and drove from Dublin to Galway stopping along the way.

So here is my two cents:

1. The GPS with the car was awful. We got sidetracked many times so go with the hotspot with your phone.
2. We stopped at abandoned castles and historic spots along the way that were not on the maps. It was the best part of the trip to run into an unexpected spots and go exploring.
3. It took me a couple of days to get used to the left side of the road driving. It was my wife freaking out who kept ducking with the onslaught of hedges scraping the car as you try to avoid tour buses taking up most of the road.
4. The Irish were the most friendly folks. Don't hesitate to stop at a pub and shoot the breeze for hours.

I am a big fan of the portable GPS, or "Sat Nav" as they call it. We did Italy a few summers ago with our own Garmin, which I paid to have the Italy map software loaded on to, and it was great. No issues at all; but it got stolen (out of our car in Madison--go figure) and the cars I've owned since came with GPS built-in, so we've never replaced it. For this trip we borrowed my cousin's Tom Tom, which was loaded with the England, Wales and Ireland maps. It was essential and flawless. I far prefer it to using the phone.

As for my original query about manual vs. automatic, I can't emphasize enough how happy I was that I went for the manual. I really love driving a manual and the switch to the left hand was not an issue at all. Every time I drive manual I remember why I prefer it. I wish that it, and diesels, were not as hard to find here.

Agree with you about the Irish. The best and most friendly people anywhere. It was that way last time I visited almost 30 years ago, and it still is now. And the landscape remains stunning.

I've been to Ireland and Wales. Wales is one if most beautiful places I've ever been. The forests remind me of a Brothers Grimm fairy tale. However, the people may be the most depressed and subdued in the world. I think it's because of the dreary weather there. The people rarely smile and aren't big on small talk. The place had a bit of the original "Wicker Man" vibe to it.

Wales was the most pleasant surprise of our trip. My wife has family there, hence the reason for the visit. I had never been, other than to catch the boat to Ireland on my last visit. We found the people almost as friendly as those in Ireland, and Cardiff and its environs (particularly the awesome Caerphilly Castle around 20 minutes away) were very cool. Perhaps their Eurocup success had them in particularly good moods, but we found them generally much nicer and happier than the Brits (granted, not the highest bar...).

We're going to Ireland in late August. Looking forward to it!

@nomar , let me know if your itinerary includes Galway or Kerry. I have many great recs in both now.
 

nomar

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I am a big fan of the portable GPS, or "Sat Nav" as they call it. We did Italy a few summers ago with our own Garmin, which I paid to have the Italy map software loaded on to, and it was great. No issues at all; but it got stolen (out of our car in Madison--go figure) and the cars I've owned since came with GPS built-in, so we've never replaced it. For this trip we borrowed my cousin's Tom Tom, which was loaded with the England, Wales and Ireland maps. It was essential and flawless. I far prefer it to using the phone.

As for my original query about manual vs. automatic, I can't emphasize enough how happy I was that I went for the manual. I really love driving a manual and the switch to the left hand was not an issue at all. Every time I drive manual I remember why I prefer it. I wish that it, and diesels, were not as hard to find here.

Agree with you about the Irish. The best and most friendly people anywhere. It was that way last time I visited almost 30 years ago, and it still is now. And the landscape remains stunning.



Wales was the most pleasant surprise of our trip. My wife has family there, hence the reason for the visit. I had never been, other than to catch the boat to Ireland on my last visit. We found the people almost as friendly as those in Ireland, and Cardiff and its environs (particularly the awesome Caerphilly Castle around 20 minutes away) were very cool. Perhaps their Eurocup success had them in particularly good moods, but we found them generally much nicer and happier than the Brits (granted, not the highest bar...).



@nomar , let me know if your itinerary includes Galway or Kerry. I have many great recs in both now.

Both. Staying in Galway for one night and Dingle for two.

That would be great, @8893
 

8893

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Both. Staying in Galway for one night and Dingle for two.

That would be great, @8893
Cool. Good call on Dingle @nomar , especially at that time of summer, as it should be much less crowded than the Ring of Kerry. We did the Ring of Kerry because my grandfather was from Cahersiveen and I wanted to visit there, see my cousins and show my kids where he lived, etc. It was also still the end of the "shoulder season," and we set out early (around 9:00 a.m.) from Kenmare and did it clockwise (whereas the tour buses go counter-clockwise), detouring for the Skelling Ring, so we missed 95% of the bus traffic, which can get pretty hairy. If you are doing the Ring of Kerry, I definitely recommend doing it that way, as well as doing the Skelling Ring. There is a stunning turnoff from Skelling Ring for "the best cliffs in Kerry." Pay the fee and do it. They aren't lying. Also, Skelling Michael is the island on which they filmed the end of The Force Awakens, as well as apparently much of the next Star Wars installment, and it's pretty cool to view from the coast (you can also take a boat ride out there). Skelling Chocolate Factory is a nice stop near there.

Otherwise I don't have much for you in Dingle, as we did a night in Kenmare and a night in Cahersiveen because of our focus on that area of Kerry. If you plan a stop in Kenmare and/or Cahersiveen let me know and I'll give you the pubs and restaurant we liked.

As for Galway, we spent three nights there so we really dug in and loved it. If you will be there on a Saturday morning, definitely plan to spend a couple hours and a couple hundred dollars at the Galway Market. We bought lots of souvenirs and gifts there, and ate a ton of great food. My wife also fell in love with several fine woolen items at a store called Designs of Ireland, that proved to have among the best selection and quality (and fairest prices, given the quality).

The most interesting sites there imo were the St. Nicholas Church, the various viewpoints of the River Corrib (including the Salmon Weir Bridge) and the Galway Cathedral. But really the most interesting thing in Galway is simply the street scene all throughout the day and night, particularly the Latin Quarter. Really high quality busking and people watching. By far the best street performers we saw anywhere.

For food, the best fish and chips we've ever had were at McDonagh's. They were really excellent. Blew away anything we had in England.

Martine's, owned by the sister of the guy who owns McDonagh's, is right across the street and is a very good choice for lunch or dinner, with a wide variety of appetizers and mains. We all loved our meals there.

The Salt House, owned by Galway Bay Brewing, is a nice place to grab a pint or three. Their IPA and double IPA were surprisingly good.

If you are a foodie and will be eating with others who are as well, consider a really fine, really different dinner at Loam, for which you will need a reservation well in advance. This is a "Michelin Star" restaurant, and it was an indulgence for me (although pricey by Ireland terms, it was about half what you'd expect to pay for a similar meal in NYC). I dragged my wife, who is not a foodie, there and we left the kids at the room. We did the seven course tasting menu, with wine pairings, and I loved it; and my wife grudgingly admitted that even she liked it a lot, although there were a couple items like beef carpaccio and monkfish liver that she wouldn't eat. The chef's philosophy is to use only ingredients he can get in the west of Ireland, which obviously presents some limitations (e.g., spices, lemons, olives), but also some very interesting combinations and things I'd never had, and in some cases never even heard of before. Highly recommend it if you and those with whom you're going are adventurous eaters in that way.

If you are a coffee freak like I am, go to Coffewerk + Press for the best coffee you will find anywhere, made by people who are even more obsessive about it than I am. Even my teen daughter admitted it was the best coffee she ever had, and it was a daily stop for us.

As for the most important part, the music, the best we saw was at Tigh Coili, as well as a fantastic traditional session at Rabbit's, where at least a dozen musicians were playing the night I stopped in there. Also caught good sessions at Taafees, Tigh Fox and Sonny's/Front Door. If you're a whiskey fan, the selection at Tigh Neactain is pretty amazing, including several rare Irish whiskeys that you can't find in the States.

Otherwise, the Guinness really is better and goes down like milk. I couldn't resist at least a few pints of it every day. If you are a cider fan, look for Stonewell Cider from Cork, which was our favorite and available in many places in Galway; and Bulmer's is everywhere and also very good.

And if by chance you get sick of pub food and are looking for something different (which was the case with us by the third night), Tuco's Taqueria was surprisingly excellent, owned and run by Mexicans who could not have been nicer or more accommodating.
 

SubbaBub

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Also, Skelling Michael is the island on which they filmed the end of The Force Awakens, as well as apparently much of the next Star Wars installment, and it's pretty cool to view from the coast (you can also take a boat ride out there). Skelling Chocolate Factory is a nice stop near there.

Monk builds what is likely the most remote monestary in the world, now it will permanently be part of a cheesy Hollywood tour. Did you know they still tout the bridge from the Quiet Man? A movie 80% of the people on here never heard of?

One of my regrets is that on my trip through I did not take the boat ride and climb Skelling Michael. I had a rare perfect weather day to do it but I wasn't feeling 100% an didn't want to get up that early to make the drive from Killarney to arrive at the boat in time. Now, if I want to go I'll have to dodge a swarm of fanboys swinging plastic lightsabers. Had I known it was going to be in the movie, I would have done it.
 

Dove

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Is Dingle the place known for their berry farms?
 

8893

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Monk builds what is likely the most remote monestary in the world, now it will permanently be part of a cheesy Hollywood tour. Did you know they still tout the bridge from the Quiet Man? A movie 80% of the people on here never heard of?

One of my regrets is that on my trip through I did not take the boat ride and climb Skelling Michael. I had a rare perfect weather day to do it but I wasn't feeling 100% an didn't want to get up that early to make the drive from Killarney to arrive at the boat in time. Now, if I want to go I'll have to dodge a swarm of fanboys swinging plastic lightsabers. Had I known it was going to be in the movie, I would have done it.
Yeah, I got a chuckle out the tours advertising The Quiet Man bridge. Of course my Dad, being 100% Irish, had me watch the movie with him when I was a kid, and I've watched it a few times since, but that's not one my kids are gonna know...

I wouldn't worry too much about Skelling Michael getting overrun. It's still pretty remote and we didn't sense much of a crowd anywhere once we made the turnoff for the Skelling Ring. As long as the tour buses can't get there--and they can't--I think you'll be fine when you return.

That said, I definitely encouraged our 15-year old, who is a huge Star Wars fan, to pose for several pics with Skelling Michael in the background while pretending to hold a light saber, with the intent to photo shop one in when she downloads it on the computer.
 

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