I lived there for four years. There is crime, just like there is in Atlanta, New Orleans, Houston or Chicago, but the chance you are a victim to it is close to zero. Have you seen harford's crime stats recently? Like Hartford most of the crime is in a few areas that you will not go too as there is no need to. I lived i. both downtown and midtown and never had an issue.
Is it cosmopalitan? No. The people that say Atlanta is though obviously have not travelled much.
The food is beyond excellent, the music is great, Beale street can be a blast, and if like music history it has it. Museums? Not so much outside of a great civil rights museum. There also great music related historical sites.
The city could use some sprucing up sure, but so can a lot of places. I lived in Hartford, and trust me it blows Hartford out of the water in terms of food and entertainment.
It is a poor city, but it is also the South, the cities are much different than northern cities.
It's smaller then New Orleans, has a lot of similarities, but to be honest Memphis is a lot safer. Both great food and music cities, New Orleans just has more it, and has more history. Both are grimy though and a ton of fun if you want to have it.