Looking for some Italy advice

[OkaForPrez]

Hiking between the villages in Cinque terra had me thinking I died and went to heaven. I really recommend you get this on your itinerary if you don’t have it already.

Genoa was surprisingly interesting. HUGE port, decent shopping, great food. Known for its pesto. Can easily be paired with Cinque terra.

Skip Milan. It’s too much like NYC, not enough charm.

Skip Pisa, it’s the tower and it’s not worth the picture of you pretending to hold it up.

In Florence

make sure you go up to the piazza de Michael Angelo at sunset.

Get a drink on a rooftop bar near the duomo At night.

there’s a sandwich spot called da vinattieri. It’s worth the line.

If you’re doing Venice I recommend you do Verona.

Let me know where you’re going and for how long and I can be a bit more detailed.

 

[upstater]

Spend your evenings in Venice in the Jewish quarter. That's what the Italians do.

 

[HooperScooper]

Let me know where you’re going and for how long and I can be a bit more detailed.

He told us in the original post.

OP:
I will be going on my first ever trip to Italy in about 3 weeks. I've always known the Boneyard to be a great (or mostly great) source of expertise on many subjects.....so I'd love to hear people's tips, advice, must-do's, don't-do's, food recs, best "old stuff" to see, best things to make feel like Anthony Bourdain Junior, etc.
The itinerary is pretty much set in stone. We are spending 3 days in Venice, 3 days in the Abruzzo region (Pescara and elsewhere) and 4 days in Rome.

 

[OkaForPrez]

He told us in the original post.

OP:
I will be going on my first ever trip to Italy in about 3 weeks. I've always known the Boneyard to be a great (or mostly great) source of expertise on many subjects.....so I'd love to hear people's tips, advice, must-do's, don't-do's, food recs, best "old stuff" to see, best things to make feel like Anthony Bourdain Junior, etc.
The itinerary is pretty much set in stone. We are spending 3 days in Venice, 3 days in the Abruzzo region (Pescara and elsewhere) and 4 days in Rome.

Whoops!

My only advice is to flex that itinerary down one day in Rome and Venice and add 2 days in Florence.

 

[BigErnMcCracken]

Whoops!

My only advice is to flex that itinerary down one day in Rome and Venice and add 2 days in Florence.

Opinions are like _____. I would recommend skipping Florence entirely.

 

[OkaForPrez]

Opinions are like _____. I would recommend skipping Florence entirely.

To each their own as long as it’s not Syracuse basketball.

 

[superjohn]

I will be going on my first ever trip to Italy in about 3 weeks. I've always known the Boneyard to be a great (or mostly great) source of expertise on many subjects.....so I'd love to hear people's tips, advice, must-do's, don't-do's, food recs, best "old stuff" to see, best things to make feel like Anthony Bourdain Junior, etc.
The itinerary is pretty much set in stone. We are spending 3 days in Venice, 3 days in the Abruzzo region (Pescara and elsewhere) and 4 days in Rome.

Most of the advice has already been given. In Rome and the rest of Italy eat stuff you can't get anywhere else and in Rome spend quality time in Piazza Navona drinking wine and people watching...

Not sure how much you'll be driving but half the fun is driving and stumbling into the small beautiful towns, Pitigliano "little Jerusalem" is one of the most beautiful towns I've ever seen and I stumbled upon it (no smart phone back then.) I think it's about 2 hours north of Rome and about 2 hours from Firenze...

Americans love Florence but I would skip it and walking to the top of the Duomo is a great view of the city but certainly not worth the panic attack getting up there in the heat and insanely tight walking quarters. Ran into some really loud and annoying Brits in Florence which maybe soured me on the city but it was my least favorite of all the cities. I'm also not one who believes in hauntings and ghosts but the medieval hotel I stayed in bugged me out, weirdest experience I've ever had.

About 2 hours south of Rome is Napoli which is right there with Rome as my favorite city in Italy. It's a little grittier and more hectic. Totally different than Rome and it will test your driving abilities but I loved it...

Since you'll be in Venice visit Padua, it's only a half hour away and really nice.

I was young and didn't know anything about wine back then, still don't. My dad who was a big wine guy and lived in Italy for five years told me to just get the house wine because it will always be good and it will save you money. That was good advice.

 

[NJHusky]

Lots of good advice already. my .02 in addition/reinforcement

Rick Steve’s audio tours

Drink the house wine.. it’s cheap and good and unless u are an oenophile u prob won’t pick better

Rome:
join a guided group or hire a guide for the Vatican. U skip the lines. Don’t waste your time waiting to go in. Could be hours otherwise. DRESS CODE…they aren’t kidding.

If you do the forum…get a guide (with visuals), otherwise as posted you will see a pile of rocks. Our guide gave a wonderful history.

Venice:
How r u getting to your hotel? I thought we had a short walk from where our cruise docked…but I had to cross about 10 bridges over canals. They don’t have ramps so I had to carry the suitcases for me and mrs up and over each one. If I was alone I would have dumped the luggage


We took a water taxi to the train station when leaving.

there Is a private tour of the Doge’s palace which was very cool. And a really small group. U need to book it early/in advance as it fills quickly

EAT, DRINK, ENJOY. Italy is one of my fav places to visit

 

[storrsroars]

Drink the house wine.. it’s cheap and good and unless u are an oenophile u prob won’t pick better. EAT, DRINK, ENJOY.

Probably the best Italy travel tip in this thread.

 

[DaveHuskiesFan]

Been to Italy 5 times - most recent was in April when we went to Venice / Florence / Lucca. Heading back to the Amalfi Coast in 4 weeks.

Restaurant recommendation is Enoteca Ai Artisti in Venice. One of the best meals I've had in Italy ever. They don't have online reservations but you can call them. It's only a 6 table restaurant so you won't get in otherwise.

Overall recommendation I have is that if you want to eat at highly recommended / popular restaurants you need to make reservations ASAP, like this week for July. Travel demand is pent up and July is peak tourist season.

 

[storrsroars]

Opinions are like _____. I would recommend skipping Florence entirely.

Kinda depends what you value in a destination. Only been once and that was so we could write off part of that trip as a business expense (we visited the La Marzocco espresso machine factory, there's a video on Flickr somewhere). Once one has seen the Vatican, the Duomo is nothing. Honestly, the things I recall best are not the museums or art or shopping for jewelry near the bridge. It was having a Florentine steak at Natalia's, doing an olive oil tasting, and visiting a tiny wine shop and talking to the proprietor for like an hour, getting some truly great recommendations on local stuff, from which we bought a mixed case to ship home. It's a pretty city, easily walkable, with lots of history and all that Medici stuff, but it ain't Rome. For secondary Italian cities, I prefer Bologna.

 

[uconndogs]

Wife and I went to Amalfi and then Rome a few years ago. It was a wonderful trip, but we didn't do a good job planning for Rome and ended up spending too much time in the "tourist" areas. I never felt we experienced the authentic Rome.

If you are going to the Vatican definitely get on a high-end tour with a small group and go very early.

Enjoy!

 

[Peacefrog]

I lived in the Rome area for three years and there is tons of good advice here already.

A piece of general advice I would give is to not dine near the popular tourist attractions. The food will often be mediocre. At dinner time don't find yourself looking for a restaurant in Piazza Navona or a place like that. Wander over to Trastevere (as many have suggested). You will get a much more genuine experience.

Some specifics on gelato, there are flavors that are common there that we don't get in our iced cream here. My favorites were nocciolo (hazlenut) and amarena (sour cherry).

Choose a day to see the Sistine Chapel and go there first thing. There are no reservations and the line can get crazy long.

Finally, and I don't want to be a Debbie Downer, but you must be aware of your surroundings. Pick-pocketing is rampant in Rome and it can ruin your trip. They have developed it into an art form over there and even when you think you are being careful they can get you. My mother was clutching her purse under her arm going up the escalator from the subway and someone behind her adroitly cut a slit in the back of her purse, reached in and stole her wallet (I had told her NOT to carry her purse around). It all happened within the 15 second escalator ride and she never felt a thing. When you go out for the day, bring as little as humanly possible. And no ID! You won't need it. Bring a little cash and one credit card and leave the rest locked in your hotel room safe. What you do bring with you is best kept in a zipper pouch hanging from your neck and under your shirt. Even this isn't foolproof but its about the best you can do. Beware of anyone approaching you to "help" with a map or some other form of distraction. Or groups of young kids that gather around you; they will jostle you so you can't feel what they are doing. Wave them away immediately. I would occasionally have to go to the embassy for residency paperwork or have pages added to my passport and there was always a waiting room full of forlorn American tourists who had had their license, passport and money stolen. A very sad scene. I don't want to be unnecessarily alarmist about this but I've known too many people that thought it wouldn't happen to them and then it did. And if you are taking an over night "robber train" (this is their term for them, not mine) from one place to the next, well, I would try and avoid doing that.

Back to the good stuff and there is plenty of it. Of the places you are going, Rome would easily be my favorite followed by Venice. There is so much history to see in Rome and Venice is so unique and just has a magical feel to it. Florence is great if you're an art lover/appreciator. You can see more masterpieces here than the rest of the world combined.

If you have the means while in Rome, I would suggest taking a day to go a little south to Nemi and Castel Gandolfo (summer palace for the Pope). These are smallish, charming towns overlooking lakes. They will be less crowded and touristy but pretty neat. Have an authentic lunch perched high above one of the lakes.

 

[Icculus]

Thank you all for your recommendations so far. The Boneyard is unparalleled in it's ability to crowd-source quality travel advice. For those who mentioned booking tours to "beat the lines". We did have the Vatican and the Coliseum already booked. But, based on your responses, I think that we will be adding St. Mark's Basilica to that as well.
One follow-up question: some folks mentioned the Piazza Navona. Our hotel is only a few blocks from there, so I anticipate visiting it multiple times. Does anybody have any specific food/restaurant recommendations for there? Or is it one of those "all of it is good" situations?
Edit: I posted this before I read Peacefrog's comment. I will definitely look into Trastevere for food. But I'd still be interested in any Piazza Navona-specific reco's if anybody has any. Thanks.

 

[Conndog]

Get a map of your city- if big city like Rome, then narrow down to area of your hotel- mark your hotel location & any other places you want to visit on it so you can find & return home easily.

Bring a Euro charger so you can charge your devices. We used our phone a lot for maps & directions- make sure it will work in Europe.

 

[Peacefrog]

Thank you all for your recommendations so far. The Boneyard is unparalleled in it's ability to crowd-source quality travel advice. For those who mentioned booking tours to "beat the lines". We did have the Vatican and the Coliseum already booked. But, based on your responses, I think that we will be adding St. Mark's Basilica to that as well.
One follow-up question: some folks mentioned the Piazza Navona. Our hotel is only a few blocks from there, so I anticipate visiting it multiple times. Does anybody have any specific food/restaurant recommendations for there? Or is it one of those "all of it is good" situations?
Edit: I posted this before I read Peacefrog's comment. I will definitely look into Trastevere for food. But I'd still be interested in any Piazza Navona-specific reco's if anybody has any. Thanks.

I would recommend NOT eating around Piazza Navona. For good reasons it is a tourist magnet and as such the restaurants aren't the best. They're not bad but it won't be anything you couldn't get at a middle of the road Italian restaurant over here. The atmosphere will certainly add something but I would go elsewhere.

edit: whoops, and I responded before reading your edit

 

[storrsroars]

One follow-up question: some folks mentioned the Piazza Navona. Our hotel is only a few blocks from there, so I anticipate visiting it multiple times. Does anybody have any specific food/restaurant recommendations for there? Or is it one of those "all of it is good" situations?
Edit: I posted this before I read Peacefrog's comment. I will definitely look into Trastevere for food. But I'd still be interested in any Piazza Navona-specific reco's if anybody has any. Thanks.

It's closer to the "all is good" category, which does not mean "all is the best food you'll get", but you wouldn't regret it either, you'll just overpay. Personally, I'd opt for lighter fare there, like a cheese/salumi plate or a pizza, and drink lots of wine and just absorb the scene. I'd go elsewhere for more memorable food. But I'm a foodie.

 

[Umami Zen]

A lot of valuable info has already been covered.. Get your walking in so you have room for food and wine! Being respectful and polite to the people you interact with in the service industry goes a long way towards a more pleasant experience. They pride themselves in making the customer feel comfortable and satisfied. Return the favor with gratitude and a smile. They can also be an invaluable source of information/local knowledge if asked.

Grazie and prego are two magical words.

 

[Icculus]

Some specifics on gelato, there are flavors that are common there that we don't get in our iced cream here. My favorites were nocciolo (hazlenut) and amarena (sour cherry).

Thank you, I will 1000% be seeking out these flavors now. I am a huge believer in trying out the "uncommon" when it comes to food.

 

[storrsroars]

Thank you, I will 1000% be seeking out these flavors now. I am a huge believer in trying out the "uncommon" when it comes to food.

If you like citrus, add bergamot to that list. It's native to Italy. Kind of sour orange/lemony.

 

[huskem55]

Sign up for a cooking class- we did pizza and gelato in Tuscany. Definitely a highlight.

 

[8893]

It was having a Florentine steak at Natalia's,

Of course I had to have bistecca fiorentina too, but I was unaware that it is only served rare. I split it with one of my daughters and we are both medium-to-medium-rare people when it comes to steak, but as you probably knew, what they serve you is almost raw in the middle, which neither one of us like. I very politely asked the waiter if he could throw it back on the grill and he graciously obliged, but even then it came back barely a shade different--but much appreciated.

If you like citrus, add bergamot to that list. It's native to Italy. Kind of sour orange/lemony.

That's the main flavor of Earl Grey tea, right?

 

[August_West]

Thank you, I will 1000% be seeking out these flavors now. I am a huge believer in trying out the "uncommon" when it comes to food.

Read the e f fin book. ;-)

 

[District-Husky]

I really liked Siena, especially at night b/c the town is mostly car free and there are hardly any tourists at night.

 

[Frank06830]

Check out YESABRUZZO on instagra. My family is from the region. Beautiful seashore as well and mountains. Not sure if you are into taking biking trips but something to consider. Check out Majellano on IG. Abruzzo is a beautiful region with a wide range of cities like Pescara to small quaint mountain towns.
SULMONA is known for their candied almonds you see here in the US. Scanno is a small lake town with the women still knitting their lace on the doorsteps.

 

[8893]

Read the e f fin book. ;-)

You mean read Icculus?

 

[storrsroars]

Of course I had to have bistecca fiorentina too, but I was unaware that it is only served rare. I split it with one of my daughters and we are both medium-to-medium-rare people when it comes to steak, but as you probably knew, what they serve you is almost raw in the middle, which neither one of us like. I very politely asked the waiter if he could throw it back on the grill and he graciously obliged, but even then it came back barely a shade different--but much appreciated.


That's the main flavor of Earl Grey tea, right?

You really wouldn't like "Pittsburgh Rare"

Good palate memory. Yes, bergamot is a major note in Earl Grey, as well as many better coffees from Yirgacheffe and Sidama in Ethiopia. As gelato, it's a bit bracing at first, but I found it enjoyable. Also worth noting for OP, you can order two kinds of gelato in your cup at many places, so you can mix and match sour and savory, or bitter and sweet, or whatever.

 

[Palatine]

Pay extra to go into the Vatican museums early and go straight to the Sistine Chapel. If you're lucky it will be almost empty.

You can get by with 0 Italian if you ao desire.

Driving is terrifying.

Eat, eat and eat some more. I like to make reservations for dinner and wing it everywhere else.

Try some Roman-style pizza. It's different than neapolitan... thin crust, but REALLY good.

This is right about paying and going to the head of the Vatican line. Otherwise it can be a two hour or more wait.

Personally, I loved driving in Italy. Not for the timid. Rome is tough but doable, you may want to pass on that. Oh, school buses are NOT marked. They are yellow but that's the only clue.

If you can, spend some time in a smaller town. Find a walled town and spend the afternoon or evening, just walk around, drink local wine, eat at a small restaurant, talk to folks. You'll remember it forever.

 

[dvegas]

I'd be paging FfldCntyFan on this one, but looks like there's plenty of good advice in the thread already. I had an awesome day hiking around Lake Albano in Castel Gandolfo, eating Porchetta and drinking Frascati. Also hit up Cervinia while skiing in Zermatt (the Matterhorn is just over the Swiss border), and had my first pizza in Italy in the small town of Ventemiglia after taking a bus from Nice to the Italian border and hitchhiking into town because the French railroads were on strike. It was awesome in a region not known for pizza (very close to Monte Carlo)

 

[HCCForever]

If you don’t speak any Italian, get the Michel Thomas introductory language course (the one I had was on two CDs; there is also a deluxe one with eight CDs—if your library has this one just use the first two). Even in a couple weeks you can make enough progress for it to be incredibly useful (and very much appreciated by your hosts).

I’m a big fan of Rick Steves’s books and audio tours. Download them before you go. Most are free.

Buy advance tickets for reserved times for the Vatican, Colosseum and Palatine Hill; otherwise you will be waiting in line for hours, literally.

Stop in every church you pass by. Each one is a free art and history museum.

If you are renting a car, pay extra for the insurance to have your deductible covered. The roads are tiny and crazy.

Watch the Stanley Tucci “Searching for Italy” shows on CNN for the areas where you are going.

Eat wild boar, lardo and truffles every chance you get. Eat gelato twice a day (look for the places where the pistachio gelato isn’t green). Get espresso everywhere.

I've never been to Italy but hope to next year. I went to Natal Brazil about 5 years ago where nobody spoke English except for a former gf. I spent some time listening to Pimsleur CDs while driving in my car and Duolingo on my phone to learn basic Portuguese. I'm happy I put in the effort since I was able to somewhat communicate with people and they seemed to appreciate it.