Looking for some Italy advice

[Icculus]

I will be going on my first ever trip to Italy in about 3 weeks. I've always known the Boneyard to be a great (or mostly great) source of expertise on many subjects.....so I'd love to hear people's tips, advice, must-do's, don't-do's, food recs, best "old stuff" to see, best things to make feel like Anthony Bourdain Junior, etc.
The itinerary is pretty much set in stone. We are spending 3 days in Venice, 3 days in the Abruzzo region (Pescara and elsewhere) and 4 days in Rome.

 

[Letsgohuskies11]

Check your passport expiration date

 

[8893]

If you don’t speak any Italian, get the Michel Thomas introductory language course (the one I had was on two CDs; there is also a deluxe one with eight CDs—if your library has this one just use the first two). Even in a couple weeks you can make enough progress for it to be incredibly useful (and very much appreciated by your hosts).

I’m a big fan of Rick Steves’s books and audio tours. Download them before you go. Most are free.

Buy advance tickets for reserved times for the Vatican, Colosseum and Palatine Hill; otherwise you will be waiting in line for hours, literally.

Stop in every church you pass by. Each one is a free art and history museum.

If you are renting a car, pay extra for the insurance to have your deductible covered. The roads are tiny and crazy.

Watch the Stanley Tucci “Searching for Italy” shows on CNN for the areas where you are going.

Eat wild boar, lardo and truffles every chance you get. Eat gelato twice a day (look for the places where the pistachio gelato isn’t green). Get espresso everywhere.

 

[Hey Adrien!]

Check your passport expiration date

Dude, you stole my reply!

I guess I checked too late?

 

[fatlucy]

Plan all your daily events around food.

 

[geordi]

Kinda depends on where you are going and for how long. I’d also recommend the Pimsleur course on basic Italian. Very comprehensive, but you likely won’t get much farther than the first section - 30 or so interactive CDs but it’ll get you to the point you can get by. Besides, you only need to know vino (wine) and bsno (bathroom).

I’ve always preferred northern Italy. Milano, Verona, Fiorenza. But Rome has a lot to give as does southern Italy. Just make sure you interact with the people. And by the way, there are plenty of English speakers there.

Good luck on the visit. You’ll really love it.

 

[husky429]

I will be going on my first ever trip to Italy in about 3 weeks. I've always known the Boneyard to be a great (or mostly great) source of expertise on many subjects.....so I'd love to hear people's tips, advice, must-do's, don't-do's, food recs, best "old stuff" to see, best things to make feel like Anthony Bourdain Junior, etc.
The itinerary is pretty much set in stone. We are spending 3 days in Venice, 3 days in the Abruzzo region (Pescara and elsewhere) and 4 days in Rome.

Pay extra to go into the Vatican museums early and go straight to the Sistine Chapel. If you're lucky it will be almost empty.

You can get by with 0 Italian if you ao desire.

Driving is terrifying.

Eat, eat and eat some more. I like to make reservations for dinner and wing it everywhere else.

Try some Roman-style pizza. It's different than neapolitan... thin crust, but REALLY good.

 

[husky99]

Amalfi Coast and or Tuscany are amazing. Rent a car and just drive. You will find amazing towns and villages... food is nuts

 

[husky99]

Pay extra to go into the Vatican museums early and go straight to the Sistine Chapel. If you're lucky it will be almost empty.

You can get by with 0 Italian if you ao desire.

Driving is terrifying.

Eat, eat and eat some more. I like to make reservations for dinner and wing it everywhere else.

Try some Roman-style pizza. It's different than neapolitan... thin crust, but REALLY good.

100% agree

 

[storrsroars]

Haven't been to Venice or Abruzzi, so this is for Rome only.

Don't eat lunch or dinner within 3 blocks of the Colosseum in any direction, even if Rick Steves says it's OK. Had my 2nd worst meal ever in Europe at a place he specifically recommended.

It's gonna be really hot in Rome in July, like 100F hot. Go to Goodwill and buy some light silk/rayon short sleeve shirts that look European for $5. They'll probably be "dry clean only" but you're only gonna wear them one or twice so you don't really care.

If you go to the Catacombs/Via Appia, do yourself a favor and drive a little farther south to Ristorante L'Archeologia. It's unique and well worth the visit, IMHO. @8893 is right - while everything I had here was amazing, it's where I was introduced to lardo on lightly toasted bread with a sprinkle of lemon. So simple yet so wondrous.

You can get museumed out. I did, after visiting the Vatican and a couple other places. It was in the middle of the Borghese, where I'd just had it up to my eyeballs with religious imagery. Unless you're truly a student of classical art, prioritize which ones are really important to you and leave plenty of time for sipping wine while watching the scenes at the various piazzas, particularly Piazza Navona. You might run into a street performer who absolutely nails the closing solo of Comfortably Numb. Anyway, plenty of delightful unscheduled street performance abound.

Save one night for a dinner in Trastevere. Doesn't much matter where. Great outdoor dining scene everywhere.

If going to the Trevi Fountain, there's a really neat gelato shop couple of blocks away. Il Gelato di San Crispino. Looks like a science lab, but it's the best we had. The snozzberry tastes like snozzberry.

Visit a market. Usually guidebooks will list Campo d'Fiore as #1, but it's become too touristy. But any market will do for grabbing a few things to eat on premises or bring back to your hotel. If you've never eaten a fresh artichoke, you'll find folks to prepare one for you which you'll eat like a lollipop. You can't get that in US.

Don't order a cappuccino after 11am.

I'll probably think of others, but that's it for now.

 

[huskiesNhoos]

If you don’t speak any Italian, get the Michel Thomas introductory language course (the one I had was on two CDs; there is also a deluxe one with eight CDs—if your library has this one just use the first two).

things still come on CDs??

 

[ucjoet]

There is a small beach town between Rome and Amalfi Coast, called Sperlonga. My wife and I fell in love with it. Been there twice in last 5 years. If you get a chance check it out, you will not regret it. Check out the older part of city.

 

[MyDorona]

Try some Roman-style pizza. It's different than neapolitan... thin crust, but REALLY good.

Roman style is my favorite. (New Haven a close second). I cannot understand why it never caught on stateside. I live in NYC, and wouldn't you know, I've only been able to find one Roman-style pizzeria in this entire city.

 

[8893]

Haven't been to Venice or Abruzzi, so this is for Rome only.

Don't eat lunch or dinner within 3 blocks of the Colosseum in any direction, even if Rick Steves says it's OK. Had my 2nd worst meal ever in Europe at a place he specifically recommended.

It's gonna be really hot in Rome in July, like 100F hot. Go to Goodwill and buy some light silk/rayon short sleeve shirts that look European for $5. They'll probably be "dry clean only" but you're only gonna wear them one or twice so you don't really care.

If you go to the Catacombs/Via Appia, do yourself a favor and drive a little farther south to Ristorante L'Archeologia. It's unique and well worth the visit, IMHO. @8893 is right - while everything I had here was amazing, it's where I was introduced to lardo on lightly toasted bread with a sprinkle of lemon. So simple yet so wondrous.

You can get museumed out. I did, after visiting the Vatican and a couple other places. It was in the middle of the Borghese, where I'd just had it up to my eyeballs with religious imagery. Unless you're truly a student of classical art, prioritize which ones are really important to you and leave plenty of time for sipping wine while watching the scenes at the various piazzas, particularly Piazza Navona. You might run into a street performer who absolutely nails the closing solo of Comfortably Numb. Anyway, plenty of delightful unscheduled street performance abound.

Save one night for a dinner in Trastevere. Doesn't much matter where. Great outdoor dining scene everywhere.

If going to the Trevi Fountain, there's a really neat gelato shop couple of blocks away. Il Gelato di San Crispino. Looks like a science lab, but it's the best we had. The snozzberry tastes like snozzberry.

Visit a market. Usually guidebooks will list Campo d'Fiore as #1, but it's become too touristy. But any market will do for grabbing a few things to eat on premises or bring back to your hotel. If you've never eaten a fresh artichoke, you'll find folks to prepare one for you which you'll eat like a lollipop. You can't get that in US.

Don't order a cappuccino after 11am.

I'll probably think of others, but that's it for now.

We stayed in Trastevere. It was awesome everywhere. Would definitely stay there again.

Only one taxi driver agreed to drive us back there. The others just dropped us over the bridge because they wouldn’t drive on those roads. The one who did was nuts. Felt like an Indiana Jones scene.

Rick Steves has a “night walk across Rome” tour that is great for seeing a lot of the highlights at a good time.

I went to the Pantheon three different times in one day. Once on a very early morning run; next at lunch; and last at night. It was an entirely different scene each time.

 

[8893]

Pay extra to go into the Vatican museums early and go straight to the Sistine Chapel. If you're lucky it will be almost empty.

You can get by with 0 Italian if you ao desire.

Driving is terrifying.

Eat, eat and eat some more. I like to make reservations for dinner and wing it everywhere else.

Try some Roman-style pizza. It's different than neapolitan... thin crust, but REALLY good.

You can get by with no Italian, but it definitely helps.

For the first couple days my wife was commenting how she thought people were rude in the hotel or restaurants. I told her that it might have something to do with the fact that she spoke English as though she expected it to be their language, too. She finally got over herself started trying to use a few basic words and phrases and was amazed at how much it changed her interactions with people.

 

[huskiesouth]

VenIce is a treasure. Of course be prepared to walk. Gondola rides are very expensive and IMHO not worth the money. Ask front desk for restaurant recommendations try to stay away from touristy restaurants. Get a basic map they are available everywhere. If you see something interesting go in and explore, you’ll never find the same place again. Keep your receipts for the country when leaving you may be eligible for some VAT refunds. English is very common. Italian red wines are the best ,order a bottle with dinner like a Barolo, Chianti Reserva DOCG, etc.

 

[storrsroars]

I went to the Pantheon three different times in one day. Once on a very early morning run; next at lunch; and last at night. It was an entirely different scene each time.

Speaking of which, Sant' Eustachio is right there. Legend has it they add bicarbonate of soda to their water, which is why the crema on the espresso is so thick and doesn't dissipate. It's an espresso you won't find anywhere else. Tazza d'Oro is a block or so away, also rated one of Rome's best espresso joints, but the two cups are wildly different from a mouthfeel standpoint.

 

[8893]

Speaking of which, Sant' Eustachio is right there. Legend has it they add bicarbonate of soda to their water, which is why the crema on the espresso is so thick and doesn't dissipate. It's an espresso you won't find anywhere else. Tazza d'Oro is a block or so away, also rated one of Rome's best espresso joints, but the two cups are wildly different from a mouthfeel standpoint.

I don’t know if I hit those joints or not, but the espresso I had around there was out of this world. One of the baristas told me he thought it was the right level of humidity. He said that his crema could vary based on that.

 

[bigknight3]

Dude, you stole my reply!

I guess I checked too late?

Seems to be a consistent issue for you these days...

 

[Old school]

If you get a chance,on July 2nd the Palio will be held in Siena. Phenomenal experience. each district in Siena puts up a horse that runs in a wild horse race in the center square. Preceded by a parade. The pageantry is amazing.

 

[storrsroars]

I don’t know if I hit those joints or not, but the espresso I had around there was out of this world. One of the baristas told me he thought it was the right level of humidity. He said that his crema could vary based on that.

Humidity does effect coffee beans, but that's everywhere, not just Rome. Sant' Eustachio is a different animal. It's like Heinz ketchup vs some runny store brand. Next time you're there, stop in.

The place was legendary among the 00's coffee community. Nobody from US could figure out how the hell they got that crema, but everyone wanted it because you'd win national competitions with that stuff. First time I went to Rome, we ran into US coffee pros on vacation, including one of our former baristas who was bumming around Europe basically penniless. We had to buy her and her beau breakfast.

I lucked out with Rome as my BIL was a Dean at St. John's and used to teach in Rome every other summer. So wife and I had a bedroom in their apartment and basically lived kinda like locals, shopping and everything. One one trip when I wasn't there, wife got a tour of the Pope's apartment and had dinner with Lou Carnesecca. BIL is retired now, and honestly don't know if I'll go back as I really enjoyed not doing the hotel thing.

 

[Heritage]

I will be going on my first ever trip to Italy in about 3 weeks. I've always known the Boneyard to be a great (or mostly great) source of expertise on many subjects.....so I'd love to hear people's tips, advice, must-do's, don't-do's, food recs, best "old stuff" to see, best things to make feel like Anthony Bourdain Junior, etc.
The itinerary is pretty much set in stone. We are spending 3 days in Venice, 3 days in the Abruzzo region (Pescara and elsewhere) and 4 days in Rome.

When in Rome visit the Piazza Navona is one of the most charming and popular squares in Rome. Piazza Navona Fountain of the Four Rivers Fontana del Moro Fountain of Neptune. Visit at night you will find it worth while with musicians, artist and much more and it is surrounded by many very good restaurants. It is beautiful with the four fountains. When in Venice, St Mark's square is a must and strongly recomend The Vecchia Murano Glass Factory. A short boat ride will get you there and there are some nice places to eat.

 

[Halloween]

Learn some basic Italian. They appreciate you trying even though most people in city speak some English

You have to ask for your check at restaurants

You don’t have to tip your waiter/waitress

Expect eating at a sit down restaurant to take a couple hrs. We ate at takeaway or counter service for breakfast/lunch to maximize time

Drink house wine at restaurants. It is good and cheaper

Look for restaurants with menu written on chalkboard in Italian. Try to avoid menus posted in Italian and English outside restaurants or with hostess asking you to come in

Italians eat late and family restaurants might be closed at times during day

Google restuarants and make reservations

Watch for beggars and pickpockets. They will try to give you stuff then expect payment. Just ignore them. Children or questions are used by pickpockets

Drivers don’t always stop for people in crosswalks. When crossing just walk a consistent pace and they will avoid you. I was told to not look but could never get used to doing that.

Sit down is more expensive than counter service even in the same restaurant

Asking for tap water is considered rude. Order sparkling or non sparkling bottled water. Even better drink house wine

Don’t expect American size portions

Don’t eat gelato from places that have big mound’s because they aren’t all natural. Size matters and bigger isn’t better

Expect to pay for public restrooms. We would go into shops with restrooms and buy something even just a water then use them. At least you got something for the usage

Pasta dishes are good.

Try limoncello for aperitif. Also try an apperol spritz

Vatican, a must see but with a tour guide, allow lots of time. There is a dress code so check in advance to avoid getting turned away

2. Colosseum-get there early, sometimes they have private guides on the inside, its worth the extra few euros. There is a restaurant across the street from colosseum to have a drink outside at night with it all lit up

3. Pantheon

4 St Peters.-Walk up to the top of the Cupola for a great view or Rome

5. Trevi Fountain - a must have photo op

6. Circus Maximus - a drive by at best

7. Piazzas - Piazza del Campidoglio, Piazza Navona, Piazza del Popolo and Piazza Venezia. There are usually nice cafes and shops around these areas, and occasionally you will find open markets and music

8. Catacombs - were interesting

9. Churchs - Even small ones have interesting architecture

10. Jewish Ghetto - Very moving

11. Spent an afternoon/evening in Trastevere, across the river. A great place to walk around with the locals



Things I stay away from:

1. Roman Forum (a pile of rocks that you can see from the street above),

2 Palatine Hill (same)



Venice:

Piazza San Marco is the center of the city, lots of great shops to explore as you branch out from this center

2. St Marks Basilica is the main cathedral in the city of Venice, worth the trip inside to see

3. There is a great museum in St Marks, with lots of artifacts from the crusades. If you don’t yet have a guided tour you can easily book one online in advance

4. Rialto Bridge, over the Grand Canal, best looking bridge in the city

5. Trip down the grand Canal on a vaporetto, or water bus. you can also rent a private water taxi to do the same

6. Best view of Venice, cross the grand canal and walk up the bell tour at Chiesa di San Giorgio Maggiore

7. Gondola ride, shop around and negotiate the price in advance

8. Lots of places to explore, don’t hesitate to walk down the alley ways and cross bridges, see how the locals live.

Glass island is really expensive

 

[8893]

Humidity does effect coffee beans, but that's everywhere, not just Rome. Sant' Eustachio is a different animal. It's like Heinz ketchup vs some runny store brand. Next time you're there, stop in.

The place was legendary among the 00's coffee community. Nobody from US could figure out how the hell they got that crema, but everyone wanted it because you'd win national competitions with that stuff. First time I went to Rome, we ran into US coffee pros on vacation, including one of our former baristas who was bumming around Europe basically penniless. We had to buy her and her beau breakfast.

I lucked out with Rome as my BIL was a Dean at St. John's and used to teach in Rome every other summer. So wife and I had a bedroom in their apartment and basically lived kinda like locals, shopping and everything. One one trip when I wasn't there, wife got a tour of the Pope's apartment and had dinner with Lou Carnesecca. BIL is retired now, and honestly don't know if I'll go back as I really enjoyed not doing the hotel thing.

That sounds like quite the hook!

We were there for 17 nights, three in Rome at the beginning, three on Lake Orta at the end, and in between we did eleven nights at one of the properties on this place, which we used as a base from which to take day trips all over Tuscany (it‘s also an incredible Etruscan property and functioning farm); it’s just outside Siena and I think you’d dig it:

Home Page - Tenuta di Spannocchia - Stay on a Tuscan Farm

www.spannocchia.com

 

[wheelerdog]

Went in 2012. Best vacation of my life. The food exceeded all of my expectations.

I'll leave the recommendations to folks who've already replied. Just enjoy yourself.