OT: Replacing asphalt driveway

[8893]

We need to replace our driveway. More than 4000 sq ft. with a turn and steep incline. Getting quotes and trying to figure out the differences. Two questions at this point, in the event any of you here know or have been through this already:

What is a reasonable warranty to expect? So far one guy has offered one year and the other has offered two.

What "class" of asphalt is recommended? First guy's quote says "class 2 asphalt." Second guy tells me he only uses new asphalt, versus recycled, and claims it is more durable and lasts longer. But he is the guy with the one-year warranty.

I've seen varying reports and opinions on the internet and I'm not sure who is talking about what.

I have more guys coming out and will do more asking and research, but the experiences of those here who have been through stuff like this has proved valuable in the past, so I'm asking...

Thanks in advance for any insight.

 

[don356]

Every dway is different, but try to do some checking with neighbors, etc. who have inclines like you are describing. I assume you are referring to a hill and often blacktop does not hold up well on hills. It tends to roll up and crack at the edges, and is less tolerant to natural movement of the soil on a grade. Although concrete is more expensive, it typically holds up much better in weather that swings from hot to cold, etc and also is much stronger with rebar. Concrete is generally poured in sections with expansion joints whereas btop usually cracks fairly easily with any movement. Blacktop doesn't have any structural reinforcement so it wears out fairly quickly relative to concrete. It is cheaper, but doesn't last as long. Move slowly, and get a number of ideas. If you plan on staying put for a while, concrete can often be the same cost, or cheaper.

 

[Northbound]

Don's on the money about concrete, infinitely more durable than asphalt.

 

[Fishy]

I'd just move to a house with a nicer driveway.

Life too short to be jackassing around with broken driveways and that sort of crap.

 

[sledog]

Don't know about 'class of asphalt', but specify 4" thick - AND MEASURE IT!

We went thru this last year - d/w was 30 yrs old - but decided on pavers. Looks great.

 

[Jaker]

Pavers is the only way to go.

 

[don356]

Pavers fine on flat portion, but won't hold up on grade. The other thing to consider is if you have trucks on it with any weight, ie propane, oil, water, landscape et. al I had a friend who had asphalt and had a fire false alarm and they brought all their big equipment. Didn't do anything for the driveway. You might try a combo of concrete, pavers and or btop.

 

[8893]

I'd just move to a house with a nicer driveway.

Life too short to be jackassing around with broken driveways and that sort of crap.

Already tried that several years ago when the renovation/addition talk first started. I wanted to move rather than live through that because I didn't think we were particularly well-suited to deal with it. I was right, of course; but wife and kids wanted to stay, so stay we did. And add/renovate we did. And spend we did.

Barring the lottery, or college scholarships for iPhone skills, we'll be buried in this place now. Under the driveway, perhaps.


Thanks to all for the input so far.

 

[Danzz]

Your quotes should all be reasonably close. If one is too low, pass. My father was a superintendent on road construction for 40 years and he always said two most important things: base and thickness. Make sure you have a crushed stone base and they use a roller heavy enough. 4" thickness should be good.
Stay away from anyone who knocks on your door and says he has leftover material from another job and can give you a great price. The business is loaded with small time con men. This is also the time of year when Irish Travelers are scamming people in the Northeast. Be weary of Irish accents.
Use a reputable contractor and you should be OK. Good luck!

 

[Hans Sprungfeld]

This response allows me to transcribe what I was recently told by a guy who used to do paving and now is laboring general contractor for a client of mine. He offered them as my instructions for interviewing prospective asphalt pavers in order to let them know that I knew what I wanted and what I was talking about . . . which I otherwise don't.

Also, if anyone has a recommended firm for a job in New Haven . . .

Questions to ask [and Answers to be looking for]

• Are you using Class 1, Class 2 or binder mix? [Class 2]
• How many ton roller are you using? [5 or more]
• How thick before rolled? [2.5 inches or more]
• Hand rake or power box? [Power box]
• How much base? ["Item 4/process (no screenings or reclaimed)"] . . . whatever that all means
• Heated truck? [Yes, you want the asphalt delivered hot and without worry of it cooling down]
• How much per square foot is the quote?
• Related: how many square feet are you bidding on? (so you can compare 'apples to apples' and not get low-balled)

Some other tips:

• Pay half when they show up and half upon completion.
• Get a firm completion date.
• September is best so that it's not too hot ( also, you don't want to park cars on new asphalt too soon and get tire track indentations)
• Find out if you have to get a permit to cross the sidewalk (if applicable)
• In my case, do concrete work on the garage floor in advance of driveway, because the weight of a concrete truck will be bad for the new asphalt and the old is being replaced.

 

[NJHusky]

I would also wait until the fall to do it...although it will be set up in a day, it won't fully harden immediately. If you put it down now, you will be dealing with hot June/July/Aug days where turning the wheel of your car can cause issues if the car isn't rolling. We had our driveway done in Oct so that it could set up all winter and really harden

Also make sure you have good gravel base down

 

[Dove]

note to self...drive by 8893s to etch in "Dove Was Here!!!"

 

[RichZ]

The Asphalt guy I used said it's all in the prep work. If the base is good the driveway will be good. It's a steep hill, and the excavator I had to the prep work first put in all the drains from the back yard out to the storm sewer, then graded, rolled, graded again, and brought in more gravel than I would have thought would fit there without making the driveway 6 inches higher than it is. Asphalt guy checked it out and said 'with this base, I'll guarantee this driveway for 4 years instead of the usual 2. It's now 5 years old and hasn't thought of cracking.

 

[Jaker]

Pavers fine on flat portion, but won't hold up on grade. The other thing to consider is if you have trucks on it with any weight, ie propane, oil, water, landscape et. al I had a friend who had asphalt and had a fire false alarm and they brought all their big equipment. Didn't do anything for the driveway. You might try a combo of concrete, pavers and or btop.

Nonsense, I have laid pavers on slopes many times and I live in a area that gets heavy snow and driveways are plowed with 15 ton loaders. Like any job, its all in the prep work.