Been there 3 times - vacation in 1988, overnight at my wife's sister's house during a train trip about 4 years ago, and 2 years ago for sister's 60th. Going again next week for a family wedding.
We ate at Arnaud's the last time we were there, it was recommended by my wife's sister and brother-in- law. He is old NOLA family. When we visited them briefly on our train trip, they had taken us to Remoulade - which is a casual restaurant owned by Arnaud's (walk in and I suspect take out, although we ate there). Next week we have reservations at Antoine's, which is a Creole restaurant. It has mixed reviews, but I am pretty sure we ate there back in 1988 and enjoyed it.
For Sunday brunch last time we ate at the Court of Two Sisters (buffet) and will probably do so again. The other day that we were there we just walked in a non-fancy restaurant for a positively wonderful breakfast.
Although we haven't really done the music scene, we do have tickets for the show at Preservation Hall. Because (both this and last visit) we don't precisely know what commitments we will have, we find it difficult to make too many plans.