Lawn care timeline

[temery]

I've paid for treatments and lawn care for the past few years. Got too expensive.

''what's the schedule for fertilizer, pre emergents, weed and feed, etc.? What and when, before or after watering, and before or after mowing?

Zone 6a

 

[Horatio]

Weed and Feed. Wait for 3-4 weeks. Scrape dead spots. Buy soil and seed. Add new soil to rough areas. Seed everywhere. Water regularly. That works for me. I can’t afford for Pro’s to do that stuff anymore.

 

[HuskyHawk]

Pre-emergent is right now. Perhaps slightly late. If you use Dimension, it has some post emergent effect and can be applied. If crabgrass is a problem then can apply again in late May or early June. The rest depends a bit on what you use. Organic is different than chemical. You can put down something like Milorganite any time and it won't burn.

 

[Greedo]

I put my first treatment down last weekend. The first treatment I always do a pre-emergent and then put a new treatment down every few months or so. I water the lawn in the morning in the summer when I have time. For future treatments I always decide what to put down based on how many weeds I'm seeing (whether I do a weed and feed or normal fertilizer). I have found that Lesco makes the best products. My neighbors (who all hire professionals) always ask me what I'm doing because my lawn looks better than all of theirs. I put virtually no effort in.

Edited the timeline - my brain cut out for a second.

 

[TRest]

this is helpful for crabgrass preventer:

When to Apply Pre-emergent

Summer weeds, like crabgrass, must have several consecutive days of soil temperatures above 55 degrees before they germinate. If the seed is near the...

www.ziplawn.com

 

[temery]

Pre-emergent is right now. Perhaps slightly late. If you use Dimension, it has some post emergent effect and can be applied. If crabgrass is a problem then can apply again in late May or early June. The rest depends a bit on what you use. Organic is different than chemical. You can put down something like Milorganite any time and it won't burn.

The company/ friend who has done the pre emergent did some in late April every year. I always thought this was a bit late, but by last year the crabgrass was gone.

Im looking to spread Scotts Turf Builder Halts Crabgrass Preventer tomorrow. After that, what's the organic stuff you mention? I'll spend a little more for organic because it's likely better in the long run, as long as there are no hidden costs.

I do plan to cut back on the irrigation this year. The last three or so years my water bill was close to a $ grand. I'm ok with grass going dormant as long as it's not a serious set back.

Worth noting: my next house will be a cabin in the woods. Grass will be the weed I need to kill. For now, and for the sake of resale value, I need to keep a lawn that cost my neighbors more to keep up.

 

[ZenConn]

Worth noting: my next house will be a cabin in the woods. Grass will be the weed I need to kill.

Get some goats. They do wonders for weed and poison ivy.

Goats In The Garden – Learn About Using Goats For Weed Control

Looking for earth friendlier options when grooming our landscapes? A cute and safe alternative to many of our fueled and chemical treatments is using goats for weed control. This article has more info

www.gardeningknowhow.com

You can even have goats milk!

 

[FlockOfLambs]

Assuming you arent putting seed down in Spring it looks something like this:

• late March/Early April -> pre-emergent and fertilizer
• mid to end of May -> Grub control and next round of fertilizer (6 weeks after your first treatment)
• mid to end of June -> pre-emergent/crabgrass contol (depends on how strong of a pre-emergent treatment you went with in early spring)
• (optional) mid to end of June -> disease control. If you are regularly watering your lawn in the humid summer, this helps prevent fungus or other nasty stuff from killing your lawn.
• (if you want to overseed your lawn) end of August -> grass seed/fertilizer
• early/mid October - fertilizer
• (optional) mid/late November - winterizer

Fertilizer type is up to you. UConn does soil analysis to help you pick what the right mix of fertilizer is for your lawn if you want to get that deep in it. If/when you are putting seed down, there are special fertilizers down that have a special pre-emergent in it that allows grass seed to grow but inhibits other weeds from popping up.

 

[HuskyHawk]

The company/ friend who has done the pre emergent did some in late April every year. I always thought this was a bit late, but by last year the crabgrass was gone.

Im looking to spread Scotts Turf Builder Halts Crabgrass Preventer tomorrow. After that, what's the organic stuff you mention? I'll spend a little more for organic because it's likely better in the long run, as long as there are no hidden costs.

I do plan to cut back on the irrigation this year. The last three or so years my water bill was close to a $ grand. I'm ok with grass going dormant as long as it's not a serious set back.

Worth noting: my next house will be a cabin in the woods. Grass will be the weed I need to kill. For now, and for the sake of resale value, I need to keep a lawn that cost my neighbors more to keep up.

There are loads of organics, even at Home Depot and Lowes. Nursuries and Agway will carry Jonathan Green brand, which is excellent. Millorganite is cheap. It is also derived from human sewage from Milwaukee. Scvotts has organic now too. I like to use Organic in spring as the grass doesn't need a massive dose of nitrogen then, and also in summer. It can't burn out the grass. I do like to use the chemical stuff for the pre-winter feeding.

 

[JohnFSilver]

Weed and Feed. Wait for 3-4 weeks. Scrape dead spots. Buy soil and seed. Add new soil to rough areas. Seed everywhere. Water regularly. That works for me. I can’t afford for Pro’s to do that stuff anymore.

I hate seeding in the spring. Can we start the benefits of late summer seeding and also dormant seeding in the winter before a snowstorm?

And, spring seeding is a problem for weed control. I think there is starter with weed control, but it is only good for 6 weeks. If you put pre-emergent down, your seed won't take,

 

[Horatio]

I hate seeding in the spring. Can we start the benefits of late summer seeding and also dormant seeding in the winter before a snowstorm?

And, spring seeding is a problem for weed control. I think there is starter with weed control, but it is only good for 6 weeks. If you put pre-emergent down, your seed won't take,

I seed throughout the spring. The guy that cuts my lawn told me that at a certain time in the year ( late fall/ winter) seeding up North is just wasting seed. I put the weed and feed done two weeks ago. I’ll just scrape the patches , add new soil, and seed. I’m not looking for golf course perfection. Just want a decent lawn. My neighbors retired so he has time to treat his lawn as if Tigers gonna practice on it weekly. I can’t keep up with that.

 

[JohnFSilver]

I seed throughout the spring. The guy that cuts my lawn told me that at a certain time in the year ( late fall/ winter) seeding up North is just wasting seed. I put the weed and feed done two weeks ago. I’ll just scrape the patches , add new soil, and seed. I’m not looking for golf course perfection. Just want a decent lawn. My neighbors retired so he has time to treat his lawn as if Tigers gonna practice on it weekly. I can’t keep up with that.

When the grass goes dormant -- early winter -- the seed you put down just stays dormant until the spring. It won't grow because of the temperature. I think dormant seeding in February works pretty well. But if you do that, you can't put weed and feed down until the first cut. We'll see. I had to seed this spring so no pre-emergent or weed control until the grass grows. Such a hassle to weed while trying to grow a lawn.

 

[DCHuskyFan]

Need pre-emergent, weed and feed in the spring 3 weeks apart, and weed and feed in the fall 3 weeks apart. Also, aerate and overseed in the fall or very early spring to have a series of cool nights. I’m in the northern VA area and my front lawn (fescue) is on the north side of the house. I guess those would be factors as well.

 

[ClifSpliffy]

pro tip for the lawn nuts. separate from the ground being warmer than usual thruout this past winter, we're also in a much dryer than usual spring. feels droughtish to us close to the earth, slack-jawed and shiftless, 'unedumacated' types. plan accordingly going forward.
plan 'b' - if even remotely appropriate for the locale, replant ur hollywood looking grass patch with zoysia, and now ur done with the whole rigamarole fa'evah, as it concludes in a binary way, ie, either dormant yellowish or sweet and ubersoft green, with nary a weed or disease to be seen. zoysia mostly laughs at droughts.
don't worry aboot the 'resale image' thing. we're in a time of scant normal house supply. im a big fan of the 'don't like it? don't buy it. someone else will' philosophy.

 

[Horatio]

When the grass goes dormant -- early winter -- the seed you put down just stays dormant until the spring. It won't grow because of the temperature. I think dormant seeding in February works pretty well. But if you do that, you can't put weed and feed down until the first cut. We'll see. I had to seed this spring so no pre-emergent or weed control until the grass grows. Such a hassle to weed while trying to grow a lawn.

Ok. I was told that you can seed during cold months, etc. Then I was told you can’t and it’s a waste of seed on cold ground. I’ll have to look into. Thanks.

 

[UCDaveD]

I have a guy coming to weed and feed this Friday. I’ll mow, but I don’t care enough to learn how to properly do all of the other stuff yet.

 

[ClifSpliffy]

Ok. I was told that you can seed during cold months, etc. Then I was told you can’t and it’s a waste of seed on cold ground. I’ll have to look into. Thanks.

hillbilly and superscience perspective -the entire stuff growing movie is a function of the ground temperature spectrum between around mid 50s to mid 80s. below or above, stuff goes on snooze patrol. that's why the colonials said 'don't plant ur corn until the oak shows leaves the size of a mouse ear.' and that's why the oak leaves are still hanging around long after some folks are consumed with pumpkin-spiced lattes. they may be chilly, but the ground ain't.

 

[Dream Jobbed 2.0]

So I’m moving into the new house May 28th and I’m worried I won’t have time to do what I want to the lawn this year ?

 

[NC_Uconn_Fan]

If you have to seed some bare spots, skip the pre emergent in those spots. Pre emergent should be applied when you see the forsythias bloom, that's a good indicator that soil Temps are ready.

As far a fertilizer, that's up to you. I would do 1 synthetic fertilizer (scotts or like) treatment after the lawn is awake in the spring then stick with organics in the summer. You being more north that me, you can probably get away with a 2nd synthetic fertilizer in early May. If you are having a dry spell and no irrigation, I'd skip it. Thats how I handle my lawn for the past decade.

For weeds, I would go with a spray. Get yourself a backpack sprayer and find a good 3 way herbicide with a surfactant. Wear long pants, mask and boots. Don't be stupid and spray with shorts and flip flops on a windy day. Weed and feed, while convenient, is not as good as a spray.

I always recommend getting a soil test from your state AG depth, this will let you know if you need lime for any other nutrients. They'll give recommendations as well.

Here's a picture of my lawn yesterday. 1 acre of tall fescue in NC. I do all my lawn maintenance.

 

[Dove]

So I’m moving into the new house May 28th and I’m worried I won’t have time to do what I want to the lawn this year ?

Ah well.

 

[ClifSpliffy]

So I’m moving into the new house May 28th and I’m worried I won’t have time to do what I want to the lawn this year ?

no worries. peak spring grass growing season, absent temp/climate anomalies , is roughly memorial day to around independence day. seed, water, and ur good to go. george washington the farmer said plant ur grass, the smoking kind, around week 2 or 3 of may, for his virginia locale. of course, we do have the 'warming' thing going on, which changes the ground temp part of the formula, but it's still largely solid advice. sooooooo, yes, if ur flow has u out there in week 1,2,or 3 of june, then no problamo, ceptin for the water part of the equation. i draw my planting line at june 21st, for the obvious reason.

 

[JohnFSilver]

pro tip for the lawn nuts. separate from the ground being warmer than usual thruout this past winter, we're also in a much dryer than usual spring. feels droughtish to us close to the earth, slack-jawed and shiftless, 'unedumacated' types. plan accordingly going forward.
plan 'b' - if even remotely appropriate for the locale, replant ur hollywood looking grass patch with zoysia, and now ur done with the whole rigamarole fa'evah, as it concludes in a binary way, ie, either dormant yellowish or sweet and ubersoft green, with nary a weed or disease to be seen. zoysia mostly laughs at droughts.
don't worry aboot the 'resale image' thing. we're in a time of scant normal house supply. im a big fan of the 'don't like it? don't buy it. someone else will' philosophy.

LOL. It's green for like 3 months. 9 months of yellow. California grass.

 

[JohnFSilver]

If you have to seed some bare spots, skip the pre emergent in those spots. Pre emergent should be applied when you see the forsythias bloom, that's a good indicator that soil Temps are ready.

As far a fertilizer, that's up to you. I would do 1 synthetic fertilizer (scotts or like) treatment after the lawn is awake in the spring then stick with organics in the summer. You being more north that me, you can probably get away with a 2nd synthetic fertilizer in early May. If you are having a dry spell and no irrigation, I'd skip it. Thats how I handle my lawn for the past decade.

For weeds, I would go with a spray. Get yourself a backpack sprayer and find a good 3 way herbicide with a surfactant. Wear long pants, mask and boots. Don't be stupid and spray with shorts and flip flops on a windy day. Weed and feed, while convenient, is not as good as a spray.

I always recommend getting a soil test from your state AG depth, this will let you know if you need lime for any other nutrients. They'll give recommendations as well.

Here's a picture of my lawn yesterday. 1 acre of tall fescue in NC. I do all my lawn maintenance.
View attachment 66799 View attachment 66800

Incredible. How did you initially seed it? Mine just never gets that thick. I have tall fescue in the back. And should get soiled tested. Too much moss, probably need a ton more lime.

 

[StllH8L8ner]

There are loads of organics, even at Home Depot and Lowes. Nursuries and Agway will carry Jonathan Green brand, which is excellent. Millorganite is cheap. It is also derived from human sewage from Milwaukee. Scvotts has organic now too. I like to use Organic in spring as the grass doesn't need a massive dose of nitrogen then, and also in summer. It can't burn out the grass. I do like to use the chemical stuff for the pre-winter feeding.

Love Milorganite. I spread it 3-4 times a year and have had great looking lawns to the point where my neighbors who use lawn services ask how I get my lawn so green. Great stuff!

GrubX is important as well. Couple of years ago I had a large section of dead grass that turned out to be grubs. They can be devastating if not treated.

 

[HuskyHawk]

no worries. peak spring grass growing season, absent temp/climate anomalies , is roughly memorial day to around independence day. seed, water, and ur good to go. george washington the farmer said plant ur grass, the smoking kind, around week 2 or 3 of may, for his virginia locale. of course, we do have the 'warming' thing going on, which changes the ground temp part of the formula, but it's still largely solid advice. sooooooo, yes, if ur flow has u out there in week 1,2,or 3 of june, then no problamo, ceptin for the water part of the equation. i draw my planting line at june 21st, for the obvious reason.

Zoysia? In the northeast? No thanks. It's hard enough dealing with the crap KY31 Tall Fescue that was in most cheap contractor grass seed mixes. Looks like crap and is late to green up. Modern, thin blade tall fescue can be ok, but I still avoid it.

CT and my locale in southern MA, are prime cool season grass climates. Lots of good blends out there. I'm currently using URI #2 formulated at URI. I buy it at Agway. Kentucky blue, red fescue and perennial rye. Be careful with some patch filler grass seed. Annual rye germinates really quickly, but then dies and doesn't come back.

My challenge is a sloped yard, sitting on ledge in the back. I gradually lose top soil, and growing grass is a bitch. I need to put down compost. Organic fertilizer helps with soil quality over time.