Dublin and Ireland recommendations needed | The Boneyard

Dublin and Ireland recommendations needed

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Flying out for a guys golf trip and will be in Dublin and southwest part of Ireland. Already have the Guinness tour planned. Any recommendations for restaurants and pubs?

Thanks in advance!
 
Compiled from previous posts:

Dublin: Plenty of good hotel options in all price ranges. Personally, I stay at the Fitzwilliam off St Stephen's Green. It's more upscale but I'm usually travelling with the wife

There are plenty of good restaurants, yelp is your friend. Ones that I have personally been to and can recommend:

Fallon & Byrnen
Topolis (Italian)
Gallaghers Boxty House

Do not eat at the Old Storehouse Bar and Restaurant, fine for a midday pint and music. Just don't eat there. A better place in Temple Bar (which gets tired very quickly) is Merchant's Arch if you must.

Pubs: (Again, Temple Bar area gets old but there is plenty of activity) if you are looking for something more local.
Neary's - A laid back "professionals" pub where you can hear yourself talk.
O'Donoghues - Old Traditional Pub with live music.
Toner Bar -Traditional Pub more local than tourist
Stag's Head - A real old school pub near Temple Bar

Pubs that are authentic but famous enough to attract a lot of tourists
The Brazen Head - Oldest pub in Dublin, walkable from Temple Bar but a bit far.
John Kavanagh - "Gravediggers Pub" 15 min drive outside central Dublin

Dublin is an international city. Feels a lot like Boston. You won't have any trouble finding good places just wandering around but it is best to pre-scout a few as central Dublin is tightly packed so you are never too far from anything
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June 8, 2016: Public transportation in Ireland is good within cities and between cities. If I were staying in Dublin, then you don't really need a car. Same if you were only looking to travel between Dublin and Galway and staying in that city.

My Irish experience was that the best of Ireland was on the road and the little villages and out of the way places. If your intention is to take chartered day trips from Dublin, Galway, Killarney then you can probably do it without a car. But, you'd miss out on some good stuff.

I have no trouble with a manual, but opted to pay for the automatic upgrade. One less thing, and I'm on vacation.

The left side road right side driver is easy if you remember this. Keep the steering wheel in the middle of the road.

The M roads are easy to navigate an barren of cars compared to the US. Have some euros for the tolls and skip the autotoll system. The back roads can be very narrow, but if you drive carefully and pull over for oncoming traffic it's fine.

Rent a pocket hotspot (Mifi) and use your phone instead of a GPS.

Print an online guide to the Ring of Kerry and drive yourself starting early in the morning to beat the busses. Divert to the Ring of Skelling/Valenti Island/Portmagee. Ring of Beara is even better.

Connemara is a great place for a hike. The ride to the nearby Town of Clifden is nice. I recommend Guy's Bar and Snug for lunch or dinner. The pizza is pretty good too.

Any pub playing trad music is fun even if it's more of a touristy thing these days. Smaller the better.

Aug 26, 2018: Start your Ring of Kerry run early, 8 am early. Drive counter-clockwise to say ahead of and not drive into the bus traffic. Veer off the main run and stop at Rossbeigh Strand (beach), cross Valentia Island, and drive through Portmagee. If you want to visit Skellig Michael, you should stay overnight near Portmagee as the boats leave early in the morning. Most of the boats leave from there, won't go out in rough seas, and only a few of them actually land ashore (in very calm seas). It is the kind of thing you can't really plan and need to be ready if the weather is nice. I had a glorious day the day we had in mind to do it but I was feeling ill and didn't think I had it in to make the climb to the top. Opted for the Valentia/Portmagee/RoK instead. I still regret it as this was before Star Wars put it on the mass tourist map. Maybe after a few more movies, people will stop caring about Star Wars enough to make another attempt.

As for Killarney, it's touristy but so what, that is why you are there. Find a pub full of Americans where the Trad is playing, drink some Guinness, Jameson, and have an irish coffee. There is nothing wrong with that. Authentic Ireland is easily found elsewhere. If you have had enough of the hotel irish breakfasts, there is a place in Kilarney center called JAM, they serve sandwiches pastries and coffee. Ate there twice for breakfast. First time was to grab something for the ROK car ride (left at 7 am), second was for the trip back to Dublin.

Aug 27, 2018:
Also stayed at the Lake (Hotel in Killarney). It is not reasonably walkable to the center but parking is easy and it has a nice view of the Lake (duh) and a decent hotel bar. Rooms are European (small) but adequate. Would recommend.
 
Urban Brewing is very good. Also Teeling distillery near Guinness Storehouse. If you have the time, take a trip to Howth or anywhere along the coast to the southeast of the city on the train.
 
Flying out for a guys golf trip and will be in Dublin and southwest part of Ireland. Already have the Guinness tour planned. Any recommendations for restaurants and pubs?

Thanks in advance!
Where specifically is the golf? Killarney? Kinsale? Where are you staying in Dublin? I've been 6 times, trip 7 got cancelled due to Covid, but I'm going back this fall. If Killarney and in summer/late spring, make reservations for dinner.

Guinness tour is ok. Worth doing. I doubt you want history stuff from your post. As for pubs, there aren't as many as there used to be in Dublin but still no shortage. Do you want a quiet spot? Live Irish music? Sports on TV? There are a lot of flavors of Irish pub. Also, lots of restaurants with a wide range of cuisine. Joining the EU stripped Dublin of some Irish character, but it's a lot more diverse now with people from all over.
 
Where specifically is the golf? Killarney? Kinsale? Where are you staying in Dublin? I've been 6 times, trip 7 got cancelled due to Covid, but I'm going back this fall. If Killarney and in summer/late spring, make reservations for dinner.

Guinness tour is ok. Worth doing. I doubt you want history stuff from your post. As for pubs, there aren't as many as there used to be in Dublin but still no shortage. Do you want a quiet spot? Live Irish music? Sports on TV? There are a lot of flavors of Irish pub. Also, lots of restaurants with a wide range of cuisine. Joining the EU stripped Dublin of some Irish character, but it's a lot more diverse now with people from all over.
We will be flying into Dublin and will be there for two days. We are playing Postmarnock while out there. Then we are heading to Killarney for 4 days and playing everyday. Our last day we will be in Kinsale.

I know one of the days we will be doing King John's castle/Muckarose House/and the national park.

There is going to be 5 of us all in our late 30's and early 40's. Just looking to take as much in as we can while out there. We are open to really any bar/restaurant. I can rely on Yelp and Google reviews as well.
 
We will be flying into Dublin and will be there for two days. We are playing Postmarnock while out there. Then we are heading to Killarney for 4 days and playing everyday. Our last day we will be in Kinsale.

I know one of the days we will be doing King John's castle/Muckarose House/and the national park.

There is going to be 5 of us all in our late 30's and early 40's. Just looking to take as much in as we can while out there. We are open to really any bar/restaurant. I can rely on Yelp and Google reviews as well.

My wife is from Portmarnock. Lives near that golf course if thats where you are playing. It's beautiful around there. Malahide which is up the road is very nice as well. Theres a very pretty walking path along coastline from Portmarnock as well.
 
.-.
We will be flying into Dublin and will be there for two days. We are playing Postmarnock while out there. Then we are heading to Killarney for 4 days and playing everyday. Our last day we will be in Kinsale.

I know one of the days we will be doing King John's castle/Muckarose House/and the national park.

There is going to be 5 of us all in our late 30's and early 40's. Just looking to take as much in as we can while out there. We are open to really any bar/restaurant. I can rely on Yelp and Google reviews as well.
I like Brazen Head, Guinness Factory and The Queens Bar in Dalkey, but in all honesty, all of the pubs in Ireland are great. The people are ultra-friendly. They actually like Americans. Imagine that! Kinsale is my favorite town in Ireland. A quaint town with a great vibe. Enjoy the trip!
 
Where specifically is the golf? Killarney? Kinsale? Where are you staying in Dublin? I've been 6 times, trip 7 got cancelled due to Covid, but I'm going back this fall. If Killarney and in summer/late spring, make reservations for dinner.

Guinness tour is ok. Worth doing. I doubt you want history stuff from your post. As for pubs, there aren't as many as there used to be in Dublin but still no shortage. Do you want a quiet spot? Live Irish music? Sports on TV? There are a lot of flavors of Irish pub. Also, lots of restaurants with a wide range of cuisine. Joining the EU stripped Dublin of some Irish character, but it's a lot more diverse now with people from all over.
Do you feel having a caddy is worth the money? Group is pretty split on this for some reason. I’m thinking it’s almost a necessity?
 
Do you feel having a caddy is worth the money? Group is pretty split on this for some reason. I’m thinking it’s almost a necessity?
Don't know. Actually haven't golfed over there. You have 5 so that's weird. They will probably tell you whether it's required or necessary at each course. Are you going to go to Oldhead? I've been by there. Been by Lahinch and Spanish Point several times. Lahinch is gorgeous, and Oldhead is simply astonishing.

For pubs in Dublin, The Celt is a good choice. I like Gogarty's in the Temple Bar area. O'Donohue's over by Merrion Row (stayed at the Merrion on my honyemoon). But it would help to know where in Dublin you're staying.

Killarney has loads of pubs, and lots of tourists all summer. Dinner reservations are recommended. Killarney Brewing Company will provide something besides Guinness, Smithwiks, Murphy's and Carlsberg. I recall liking The Shire and The Laurels for pubs.
 
Do you feel having a caddy is worth the money? Group is pretty split on this for some reason. I’m thinking it’s almost a necessity?

I’d recommend a caddie for a couple reasons:
1. Pace of play, they work hard and have an uncanny ability to find errant shots in rough and gorse
2. Most times believe it or not, the caddy will be a member of the club and have local knowledge on where to eat, drink, hang out and are just a lot of fun, always quick with an inappropriate sarcastic joke.
3. My back sucks, cardio isn’t much better. It helps if playing multiple days in a row.
4. And you guys are probably $3-4k into the trip if not more, what’s another 50-60 euros (or quid) per round?
 
I’d recommend a caddie for a couple reasons:
1. Pace of play, they work hard and have an uncanny ability to find errant shots in rough and gorse
2. Most times believe it or not, the caddy will be a member of the club and have local knowledge on where to eat, drink, hang out and are just a lot of fun, always quick with an inappropriate sarcastic joke.
3. My back sucks, cardio isn’t much better. It helps if playing multiple days in a row.
4. And you guys are probably $3-4k into the trip if not more, what’s another 50-60 euros (or quid) per round?
Wow

I sent that to my group chat. Great response, thank you!
 
Stayed 4 nights in Killarney for a golf trip, great food and good times. Was not sure what to expect from a food standpoint and was shocked at how good everything was. Ate steak or lamb every night and each place was better than the last. Unfortunately don’t remember the restaurant names, but do remember the bars - Courtney’s and John Reidy’s were great… wished we went there every night as they had a great scene and live music.
 
.-.
I can’t recall all the names of pubs and restaurants but I loved Galway (west coast). Such a great spot for everything.
The Guinness in Ireland is great.
And if/when in Dublin keep in mind it was the Vikings who settled it. In case you were wondering.
 
My favorite bit of advice is to "order Bushmills north of the border".
 
Rent a car, drive down to and around County Cork, and have a blast! You can't go wrong no matter what you do in Cork, really.
 
Rent a car, drive down to and around County Cork, and have a blast! You can't go wrong no matter what you do in Cork, really.
Same goes for Kerry. The Ring of Kerry may be the best known drive in the country.
 
Ireland is something else. Killarney was the clear winner for us, specifically J.M. Reidys after golf.
In order, my favorite courses I played:
Ballybunion
Waterville
Old Head (a must play due to all the views, cliffs, and etc.
Tralee (back 9 was beautiful)
Postmarnock
Killarney Golf and Fishing (emergency round)
 
.-.
Ireland is something else. Killarney was the clear winner for us, specifically J.M. Reidys after golf.
In order, my favorite courses I played:
Ballybunion
Waterville
Old Head (a must play due to all the views, cliffs, and etc.
Tralee (back 9 was beautiful)
Postmarnock
Killarney Golf and Fishing (emergency round)
Nice! Glad you enjoyed it. I've been by Old Head several times, but haven't been on it or played it. Killarney is cool, just can get a bit busy in peak tourist season. Did you get down to Dingle? I'm sure I'd enjoy the golf, but we just go for the history, scenery, pubs, music and people. It's an infectious place.
 
I’d recommend a caddie for a couple reasons:
1. Pace of play, they work hard and have an uncanny ability to find errant shots in rough and gorse
2. Most times believe it or not, the caddy will be a member of the club and have local knowledge on where to eat, drink, hang out and are just a lot of fun, always quick with an inappropriate sarcastic joke.
3. My back sucks, cardio isn’t much better. It helps if playing multiple days in a row.
4. And you guys are probably $3-4k into the trip if not more, what’s another 50-60 euros (or quid) per round?
I'd add that on a true links course, you can actually get lost. You might find yourself shooting at the wrong green or playing holes out of order. They're not like "links" courses over here.

As for #2, my favorite was being 150 yards out, asking for my 7-iron and being handed my 5-iron. I said to the caddy, "My 7 is what I use from this far out." To which he replied, after seeing my game for several holes: "Not today it isn't, laddie."
 
Ireland is something else. Killarney was the clear winner for us, specifically J.M. Reidys after golf.
In order, my favorite courses I played:
Ballybunion
Waterville
Old Head (a must play due to all the views, cliffs, and etc.
Tralee (back 9 was beautiful)
Postmarnock
Killarney Golf and Fishing (emergency round)

Guessing this is supposed to be Portmarnock. You should check out the course in Howth which you can see from that Portmarnock course. Howth is gorgeous.
 
Nice! Glad you enjoyed it. I've been by Old Head several times, but haven't been on it or played it. Killarney is cool, just can get a bit busy in peak tourist season. Did you get down to Dingle? I'm sure I'd enjoy the golf, but we just go for the history, scenery, pubs, music and people. It's an infectious place.
Did Dingle which was awesome!

I can see Killarney getting extremely busy but when we went, it wasn’t too crowded.

May get some bad feedback but didn’t love Dublin. Guinness tour was cool and had two amazing dinners. Just didn’t love the vibe overall.
 
Honestly the EU changed it from a uniquely Irish city to just another European city. Lost a lot of the charm and culture it had. More variety of food, but it’s not interesting anymore. Galway was always better and is now much better.
I had only first visited 5 or 6 years ago but was it a lot different before that?
 
I had only first visited 5 or 6 years ago but was it a lot different before that?
Oh yeah, Pre EU it was completely different. Much less multicultural, but a lot more quintessentially Irish. During the Celtic Tiger years, people from across the EU flocked to Dublin. It got much more expensive and much less Irish. It’s fine as a city, but more generically European now. But the roads in Ireland are fantastic now with the EU money, and were crap before. So it’s much easier to travel the country. But I prefer the west coast by far.
 
.-.
Oh yeah, Pre EU it was completely different. Much less multicultural, but a lot more quintessentially Irish. During the Celtic Tiger years, people from across the EU flocked to Dublin. It got much more expensive and much less Irish. It’s fine as a city, but more generically European now. But the roads in Ireland are fantastic now with the EU money, and were crap before. So it’s much easier to travel the country. But I prefer the west coast by far.
Yeah I think most people will even tell you in Dublin area to visit the west. Still a lot of good stuff to see around there especially the shorelines or Wicklow mountains but.
 
I highly recommend O'Donohue's in Ballyhaise, County Cavan. My Irish relatives own it :)
More of my family is from a town called Dunquin in Kerry. When we last visited, my son (UConn sophomore now) said some day he wanted to go back there and open a Dunquin Donuts. I thought it was funny.
Follow the advice of those who've been multiple times. They won't steer you wrong.
 
Still looking for ideas? I spent 3 weeks driving around Ireland in 2018 starting in Dublin (3 days) drove up to Longford (family thing) then down to Cork and Kinsale (great little town) via Cashel before. Then crashed in Killarney to explore the national park there, Ring of Kerry, Dingle Penisula (Conor Pass is an interesting drive) and even took a boat to hike Skellig Micheal (Star Wars island). Then made our way up to Galway with a stop in Limerick the night they won the All-Ireland Hurling Championship before flying back home from Shannon. It was a great time.
 
Still looking for ideas? I spent 3 weeks driving around Ireland in 2018 starting in Dublin (3 days) drove up to Longford (family thing) then down to Cork and Kinsale (great little town) via Cashel before. Then crashed in Killarney to explore the national park there, Ring of Kerry, Dingle Penisula (Conor Pass is an interesting drive) and even took a boat to hike Skellig Micheal (Star Wars island). Then made our way up to Galway with a stop in Limerick the night they won the All-Ireland Hurling Championship before flying back home from Shannon. It was a great time.

sounds like a hell of a trip. Been to Kinsale as well. Very nice place. Cobh is another great town around by the water there.
 

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