OT: Deck vs stamped concrete patio vs brick/paver patio

[temery]

I’m thinking about a 20 x 20 (ish) deck or patio, and I’m looking for opinions from anyone who has researched and built either a deck or patio. Pros, cons, costs, etc.

This is for an area where drainage is important.

 

[Dream Jobbed 2.0]

I built a 16x16 floating deck in about 3 days this summer. I’d have to imagine it was a lot easier to level than stone or concrete. It could probably be done faster than that but I chose the 3 hottest days of the year to do it.

 

[Danzz]

Whatever you decide consider mortar between the blocks otherwise it will become a regular task killing the grass that grows.

 

[superjohn]

Whatever you decide consider mortar between the blocks otherwise it will become a regular task killing the grass that grows.

And if you go that route and build in the winter, be careful with your mortar.

 

[huskypantz]

I build a 400 sq foot+ patio with 16" square pavers, I think I dug about 6"+ for base. All digging was by hand and did it solo. I laid weedblock, the weeds between the pavers are minimal - but there is some moss now. I spray weed/grass killer every year or two. My patio is against my foundation so grading a downslope was very important. I also laid PVC drainpipes to a French drain under one section. If you do it, rent a plate compactor. Overall, the project was no joke - lots of physical labor for me. I think the tally was 7 yards of dirt, sand and gravel shoveled out and then in. I don't remember the exact cost but it was several hundred dollars best guess. Definitely less than $1,000. I think it was just over a week worth of work, but I put in 3-5 hours every weekday night plus fairly full days on the (two) weekends.

If I had to do it again, I'd consider making it larger. I have a table with 6 chairs on the patio. It fits fine but when you add a garden hose storage unit, large plant pots and a grill it starts to feel a little cramped. I like smaller pavers but it was so much freakin' work already that I went with a larger paver that had a faux smaller-stone pattern.

If I was going to build a deck, I'd go with composite/trek.

 

[uconnfan68]

Any deck builders out there? I have a small (8x10) elevated deck that I should replace soon. Steps are pretty bad, and not to code as I have been told by multiple people.

 

[Cheddie]

Whatever you decide consider mortar between the blocks otherwise it will become a regular task killing the grass that grows.

Don't need mortar. We had a mason install a front walk with pavers, and he used polymeric sand. You spread it over the walk when everything is in place, brush it into the cracks, and water it. When it dries, it's hardens just like mortar - and after 2 years, 100% effective in keeping weeds/grass out.

 

[Danzz]

Don't need mortar. We had a mason install a front walk with pavers, and he used polymeric sand. You spread it over the walk when everything is in place, brush it into the cracks, and water it. When it dries, it's hardens just like mortar - and after 2 years, 100% effective in keeping weeds/grass out.

Sounds like a better and cheaper alternative to mortar.

 

[HuskyHawk]

We had an existing deck about 3’ above the ground and put paver patios on both sides of it. Depends on your house and yard really. I end up really liking the no-level area for entertaining. It breaks things up.

 

[Jaker]

Pavers are the only way to go, f-decks and all the maintenance with them.

 

[jibsey]

I know a mason from Macedonia who does fantastic work but it ain’t cheap, but it’s rock solid, no pun intended.

 

[UConnLen]

I built a 16x20' Azek deck about 3 years ago to replace a PT wood deck that I had built previously. I used the previous substructure but the deck is Azek w plastic railings at a cost of about $3K. I have a salt water IG heated kidney pool (34x 18) with a poured concrete deck (varies 5 to 8' surround) and had pavers installed around that to fence line (rectangle about 36x48'. The paving area wasn't that large considering the space of pool plus. Concrete salmon colored deck. Pavers w labor cost $7K which was a good price when done 10 years ago. Azek deck looks great and is virtually maintainance free. The pavers require some upkeep as we have moles/ chipmunks the burrow tunnels occasionally causing block shifting. Hope all this helps. BTW also I paved a 4x30' brick sidewalk in front of our home and it's important to make a good base with gravel/ sand and power tamper -lots of work and planning was involved with mine as it curved 90• ( brick cutting).

 

[Northbound]

Polymetric sand is the way to go to “lock” the stones.

We have two very large decks and a very large flagstone patio. We live in a. Very rural area in a lot of acres and we want to have a ton of outside space to just luxuriate in the woods.

The decks are a pain in the ass to maintain. One was cedar and t rotted so I just replaced it this year. It’s easy to do, but laying the boards and getting angles takes time, but not a huge deal. But grabbing 5 16’ decking boards at a time and swinging them around did cause me to slip three discs which was no fun - hazards of working alone I suppose.

I’ve done a flagstone patio that is probably 25’ x 20’. We sourced all the stone from local fields and there’s wasnt a single stone of the same thickness which is a real PIA laying them. You’ve got to get the base and drainage right - get the plate tamper, long levels, string levels, etc. for you of course you won’t have to decide on a tight stack vs a spaced because pacers as I think of them aren’t really suited for a spaced install.

A pavers install look great so does a deck, BUT if you do a deck do composite because you’ll get longevity with little to no maintenance.

 

[Dream Jobbed 2.0]

This is the 16x8. deck I put up this summer. 3 days and all the materials were about 1100 including about 3 Home Depot truck rentals. Nicely a decent size table with 3 chairs and a sofa and 2 gravity chairs. I never got around to staining it this year oh well

 

[jibsey]

One thing that is very important is the type of soil you are working with. In NW Ct. you can’t put a shovel in the ground without hitting a rock, those rocks percolate to the suface with frost heaving making things uneven eventually. In other areas you have sandy soil. Digging down deep maybe a foot or more, putting down crushed stone, compacting it, and then the bricks or pavers, but also the slope so that water runs away is important. I have polymeric ona paver patio, and moss grows between, I’m OK with that. i had a split fieldstone walk done with crushed stone, wire mesh and concrete. It’s major work, costly butit’s not going to buckle and there never be weeds. i learned alot and paid a lot of money by the time i had my driveway paved the 3rd time. You need to dig very deeply, put in big bases if you want stuff to stand the test of time.

 

[sledog]

Check w your tax assessor. Usually when you pour concrete, your taxes go up a lot because it's deemed 'permanent'.

 

[DonaldDraper]

Pavers and stone are the best looking way to go. Keep in mind that you're looking at $20+ a sq ft to do concrete base with pavers. If they dig deep enough to put in 8-12 inches of gravel then you're going to be crack free for a while.

The polymeric sand is a good option as well but I would ensure you still have a deep gravel base and bigger stones/pavers with this option. It can save you as much as $5/sq ft over the concrete, but if you don't go deep enough and have big enough patio stones the frost creepe is going to affect the patio. I went with this option for 1.5 inch thick 18x36 Pennsylvania flagstones. They are big enough where I haven't seen any movement although the polymeric sand has washed away in areas. I will need to get that redone but it should be an hour or so of a project. Minimal weeds that get pulled or sprayed are no big deal. I also buried a slotted pipe around the outside of the patio. It drains fantastically and has no drain box and is covered with grass so you can't see the drainage. The goal for drainage is 1/4 per 3 feet ata a bare minimum. I did this in northern Virginia and made sure there was a 6 inch gravel base.

Having resurfaced a deck, this option is the least appealing from my perspective unless you need it elevated. Always use at least number one wood unless you are doing it stricty to sell your house. The problem with wood is that a natural finish looks worse every year. As soon as you paint it it becomes a yearly maintenance issue that you have to come up with. Using the composit wood is the best option here if you want 20 years. Number one wood for 10 years and number 2 wood for 5 years. Then they splinter and become high maintenance. They are priced accordingly so they key is understanding the time value for your circumstance.

Stamped concrete is the best way to get long term maintenance free at the lowest cost. Make sure you hire the best possible person to do this. If the concrete cracks or is. It stained correctly it will lookout wear terribly. Ask to see a picture of the contractors work or references that is 5 years or older.

 

[jibsey]

Check w your tax assessor. Usually when you pour concrete, your taxes go up a lot because it's deemed 'permanent'.

I would rather pay the tax and forget about the weeds.