Short Trip: St. Austine, Amelia, St. Simons Island | The Boneyard

Short Trip: St. Austine, Amelia, St. Simons Island

HuskyHawk

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End of the month, taking a 4 day trip to quickly check out three locations. St. Augustine, Amelia Island/Fernandino Beach FL and St. Simon's Island, GA. I know a little about each but have never been. This is the first of many potential scouting trips for possible retirement or snow-birding. Initially St. Simon's wasn't on the list, but someone recommended it and after checking it out, it has some appeal. Flying in to Jacksonville. Not much time in each place, but it's recon for possible longer stays if a place stands out.

We won't be looking for fancy restaurants with gourmet food, but would appreciate good casual places. Also, bars with craft beers and/or live music, or even a cool outdoor beachy scene, breweries, or any noteworthy or historic places to check out or explore. Anything we'd need to know? I'm somewhat curious just how hot that area is in summer if you're near the cost. I know Savannah in the summer and Beaufort SC, and those can be pretty oppressive, but also just inland.
 

storrsroars

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My personal opinion is if you don't golf, what's the point.
 

HuskyHawk

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My personal opinion is if you don't golf, what's the point.
I do golf, but not on this trip obviously. I like the beach. I'd like to get into sea kayaking. I like walking outside where it's relatively flat but scenic. I enjoy the "low country" aesthetic, the live oaks mixed with palms, plus they have good food. I'm a parrothead of sorts by nature.

Need to consider options. Massachusetts is really expensive and rather unfriendly to retirees. Taxes social security, no real breaks for seniors, high property tax and the worst estate tax in the country (Gov is proposing to fix somewhat). I don't like winter and expect we won't see them as mild as this year very often. If Cape Cod was affordable, I'd still stay, but it's just not.
 

storrsroars

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I do golf, but not on this trip obviously. I like the beach. I'd like to get into sea kayaking. I like walking outside where it's relatively flat but scenic. I enjoy the "low country" aesthetic, the live oaks mixed with palms, plus they have good food. I'm a parrothead of sorts by nature.

Need to consider options. Massachusetts is really expensive and rather unfriendly to retirees. Taxes social security, no real breaks for seniors, high property tax and the worst estate tax in the country (Gov is proposing to fix somewhat). I don't like winter and expect we won't see them as mild as this year very often. If Cape Cod was affordable, I'd still stay, but it's just not.
I've only been in the area once, stayed in Amelia Island. Other than golf, I didn't think there was much "there" there. Not a big fan of the Jacksonville area. I've always said that if I ever was forced to give up my dreams of moving to Spain and had to resettle in FL, it would be the Bradenton/Sarasota area. Better food, better nearby city/airport (Tampa), lots of microbreweries/brewpubs, just as flat, pretty bike friendly, Pirates spring training, golf, dogs, water, beaches.
 

Chin Diesel

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Tons of history there with St. Augustine being the second settlement in the US and the longest continuous settlement in the US. Any of the museums or lighthouses should be worth your time. The other thing I'd suggest is take a look at all the state and federal parks, beaches, preserves, etc. If you do move down to any of those places you will have plenty of opportunities for inland rivers, marshes, coastal areas and the beaches. Kayaking, biking, walking, etc are all outstanding almost year round. Find out which ones are accessible for acitvities you like is a smart idea.

If you are used to the Cape you understand about tourist seasons and tourists. Add in snow birds for all those locations.
As far as taxes, you need to be aware of property taxes. I won't bore you with details but property taxes are a real schittscreek show in Florida. No state income tax, no tax on social security is good. State sales tax in FL is 6% but local governments can add up to three separate 0.5% taxes for specific areas- roads, economic development, schools. Voters vote yes or no on them and any of those taxes are voted every 10 years for renewal or to shut them down. Many food and other items are tax exempt- look them up your self to see the lists.

Weather wise, you are similar to Savannah, Hilton Head, etc. It's going to be hot and oppressive in July and August. Only good thing is you can at least go to the beach where there's always a breeze and cool off in 85 degree water. You are obviously right in the hot spot for hurricanes too. You learn to live with it but it has to figure in to your considerations.

I don't know enough about the local places for food or beer but that shouldn't be hard to Google or Yelp.
 
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Tons of history there with St. Augustine being the second settlement in the US and the longest continuous settlement in the US. Any of the museums or lighthouses should be worth your time. The other thing I'd suggest is take a look at all the state and federal parks, beaches, preserves, etc. If you do move down to any of those places you will have plenty of opportunities for inland rivers, marshes, coastal areas and the beaches. Kayaking, biking, walking, etc are all outstanding almost year round. Find out which ones are accessible for acitvities you like is a smart idea.

If you are used to the Cape you understand about tourist seasons and tourists. Add in snow birds for all those locations.
As far as taxes, you need to be aware of property taxes. I won't bore you with details but property taxes are a real schittscreek show in Florida. No state income tax, no tax on social security is good. State sales tax in FL is 6% but local governments can add up to three separate 0.5% taxes for specific areas- roads, economic development, schools. Voters vote yes or no on them and any of those taxes are voted every 10 years for renewal or to shut them down. Many food and other items are tax exempt- look them up your self to see the lists.

Weather wise, you are similar to Savannah, Hilton Head, etc. It's going to be hot and oppressive in July and August. Only good thing is you can at least go to the beach where there's always a breeze and cool off in 85 degree water. You are obviously right in the hot spot for hurricanes too. You learn to live with it but it has to figure in to your considerations.

I don't know enough about the local places for food or beer but that shouldn't be hard to Google or Yelp.
I moved to Florida almost four years ago mostly for warmer weather and no income tax. I love it here on the Space Coast and find it hard to believe I will ever move. A few things that I failed to consider financially were the higher cost of auto insurance, home owner's insurance and water. Property tax on my house isn't bad and I have none on my autos.

It has much of what storrsroars likes except for close Pirate's spring training. We are starting to get microbreweries near me. I count about 4 in a 10 mile radius, 3 are less than 3 miles away.

I believe that Amelia Island offers horseback riding on the beach which is unique to most places in Florida. Speaking of St. Simons Island, I was in the area over 25 years ago and there was a concert with Chubby Checkers. Good time on the beach during that festival.
 

Chin Diesel

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I moved to Florida almost four years ago mostly for warmer weather and no income tax. I love it here on the Space Coast and find it hard to believe I will ever move. A few things that I failed to consider financially were the higher cost of auto insurance, home owner's insurance and water. Property tax on my house isn't bad and I have none on my autos.

It has much of what storrsroars likes except for close Pirate's spring training. We are starting to get microbreweries near me. I count about 4 in a 10 mile radius, 3 are less than 3 miles away.

You're right on the property. I meant insurance more than property taxes. Homestead exemptions make property taxes manageable. Home insurance can be brutal.

I love the space coast area and if I ever had to move from the western panhandle to another part of Florida, Space Coast is my #1 place to move.
 

Chin Diesel

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I'll add this.

When you are near Jacksonville you are in Duuuuuuuvvvaaaalllll County.

FB_IMG_1678381747745.jpg
 

huskeynut

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We moved to Florida from CT in September 2016. We landed in central Florida by choice. 40 minutes from the mouse house. Taxes were a big consideration as we were recently retired. Another consideration was the weather. It was getting more difficult each year to take the cold and snow. First year in Florida we saved over $30,000.00 because of no state income tax and property taxes at around 30% of CT. We live in a 55+ community and love it.

We have been to St. Augustine a couple of times. First was right after Thanksgiving in 2017. We went to see the city decked out in lights for Christmas. Its a beautiful site. You can take a carriage tour at night. We stayed in a B & B. Restaurants are plentiful. Google restaurants in St. Augustine. The choices are almost endless.

A lot of history to the city. Take it in if you have time. If you are going to sight see, take one of the trains and do the winery, the distillery and the chocolate factory. Well worth the time spent.
 

HuskyHawk

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Spent a lot of time in southern Florida a few decades ago.

The standard joke about Florida was "the further north you go the further south it gets".
I know that’s basically true, but among the Atlantic coast islands, even Georgia and South Carolina aren’t all that “south”. Now over where @Chin Diesel lives, I’ll buy it. Even Jacksonville proper is probably a bit redneck.

We will see what we like best but Saint Simons Island is increasingly appealing. I’m doubtful it will be St. Augustine. Bigger, more densely populated and less trees and marsh. Basically like the look of the south more than the subtroptical, live oaks etc.
 

HuskyHawk

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You're right on the property. I meant insurance more than property taxes. Homestead exemptions make property taxes manageable. Home insurance can be brutal.

I love the space coast area and if I ever had to move from the western panhandle to another part of Florida, Space Coast is my #1 place to move.
We watched some shows featuring Merritt Island the other day. Looks nice, but Cocoa Beach probably gets a bit nuts at times. Friend of mine has a condo in NSB, but she lives north of Orlando so easy trip.

One of the things I’ll need to figure out is how much tourist traffic and crowds these places get, and when. No real sense of it.
 

HuskyNan

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End of the month, taking a 4 day trip to quickly check out three locations. St. Augustine, Amelia Island/Fernandino Beach FL and St. Simon's Island, GA. I know a little about each but have never been. This is the first of many potential scouting trips for possible retirement or snow-birding. Initially St. Simon's wasn't on the list, but someone recommended it and after checking it out, it has some appeal. Flying in to Jacksonville. Not much time in each place, but it's recon for possible longer stays if a place stands out.

We won't be looking for fancy restaurants with gourmet food, but would appreciate good casual places. Also, bars with craft beers and/or live music, or even a cool outdoor beachy scene, breweries, or any noteworthy or historic places to check out or explore. Anything we'd need to know? I'm somewhat curious just how hot that area is in summer if you're near the cost. I know Savannah in the summer and Beaufort SC, and those can be pretty oppressive, but also just inland.
I moved to Florida at the end of 2018. My husband and I visited many parts of Florida before settling in the Orlando area.

St Augustine is my favorite place in Florida, though. I love walking down St George St, which is a mix of touristy junk shops, historic sites, and cool craft/handmade good shops. There a candy store, Savannah Sweets,where you see them making the candy; get the pralines, they are to die for.

I like the Tini Martini bar on Route A1A. Sit outside and have a drink, see the water and watch the passersby. I haven’t found a favorite restaurant though I haven’t had a bad meal yet.

A note on hotels - the Casa Monica Resort is pretty but it can be a real beehive of activity. Some people like that but if you’re looking for serenity, it may not suit you. Also, traffic can be awful. You have to take a bridge to get to St A and it can be bumper to bumper - be patient

Across the bay is a well known lighthouse - it’s worth the trip. So is the Castillo San Marcos, the oldest fort in the US, if you like historical sites. The Fountain of Youth (it’s supposed to be the real thing) underwhelmed me but the grounds around it are beautiful

Amelia Island is mostly a gated community and very la-di-da. We didn’t spend any time ther; we didn’t find it very welcoming. We loved Fernandina Beach though. The shrimping boats go out of there so you can get some really fresh shrimp. Lobster, however, is 1000% better in New England. The Salty Pelican The Salty Pelican - Seafood Bar and Grill - Fernandina Beach Amelia Island is a nice place, great views. We ate in the bar, it was more casual and relaxed.

Ponte Vedre is between St Augustine and Jacksonville. You drive right by Sawgrass where they just held the Players Championship. It’s another really upscale, wealthy neighborhood that doesn’t have any obvious restaurants or even places to walk on the beach

Enjoy your trip!
 

Chin Diesel

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We watched some shows featuring Merritt Island the other day. Looks nice, but Cocoa Beach probably gets a bit nuts at times. Friend of mine has a condo in NSB, but she lives north of Orlando so easy trip.

One of the things I’ll need to figure out is how much tourist traffic and crowds these places get, and when. No real sense of it.

I'm in Pawleys Island, SC this week. Southern part of Myrtle Beach area.

We drove up Saturday and when we got on I-95 heading north from Jax to Georgia to South Carolina, 75% of the plated were PA, NJ, NY, Canada and other northern states.

You go from tourist season to snowbird season almost seamlessly now. There isn't much of an off season for any of these beach or coastal areas.

Somewhat relevant, we have run into so many northerners while down here for golf. Retirees that have moved fro Mass, CT, NY, and NJ.

Sunday my group was eating at a mom and pop diner for breakfast and the guy at the table next to us strikes up a conversation. Turns out he was a retiree from Mass and lived on the sixth hole of the course we were playing Sunday. When wee came byvthe sixth hole he was in the backyard and gave us each a beer.
 

HuskyNan

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We watched some shows featuring Merritt Island the other day. Looks nice, but Cocoa Beach probably gets a bit nuts at times. Friend of mine has a condo in NSB, but she lives north of Orlando so easy trip.

One of the things I’ll need to figure out is how much tourist traffic and crowds these places get, and when. No real sense of it.
Merritt Island, Cocoa Beach, and Cape Canaveral are very similar. Cocoa Beach isn’t that bad and the little downtown is kind a funky, young, and fun. There’s an awesome restaurant called the Pompano Grill there. They all get busy and all have pluses and minuses.

Also, you should know that Merritt Island isn’t on the ocean; it’s a peninsula between the Indian River and Banana River. There’s also a difference between Cocoa and Cocoa Beach; Cocoa is across the River on the mainland. A nice area is Melbourne Beach, Indialantic, and surrounding area.

We looked hard at New Smyrna Beach before we moved but it seems a bit, well, old after the vibrancy of Orlando. We like Outriggers there. You can also rent paddle boards or kayaks across the street, then go to Outriggers for lunch.
 
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Merritt Island, Cocoa Beach, and Cape Canaveral are very similar. Cocoa Beach isn’t that bad and the little downtown is kind a funky, young, and fun. There’s an awesome restaurant called the Pompano Grill there. They all get busy and all have pluses and minuses.

Also, you should know that Merritt Island isn’t on the ocean; it’s a peninsula between the Indian River and Banana River. There’s also a difference between Cocoa and Cocoa Beach; Cocoa is across the River on the mainland. A nice area is Melbourne Beach, Indialantic, and surrounding area.

We looked hard at New Smyrna Beach before we moved but it seems a bit, well, old after the vibrancy of Orlando. We like Outriggers there. You can also rent paddle boards or kayaks across the street, then go to Outriggers for lunch.
Cocoa Beach is the most crowded during Spring Break March until mid-April. The snow birds usually leave in April only to return around mid-October. The return dates depend on the weather up north and hurricanes in Florida.

Pompano Grill is a nice spot. Others are Fat Snook and Flavour Kitchen. Both on A1A. Flavour is just shy of Minutemen Causeway and Fat Snook is south of Downtown.

There are a few bars that have opened up recently downtown including Area 142 and Category 5. St. Patrick's Day should be wild as several bars will have bands in addition to the monthly Cocoa Beach Street Festival.
 

HuskyNan

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Cocoa Beach is the most crowded during Spring Break March until mid-April. The snow birds usually leave in April only to return around mid-October. The return dates depend on the weather up north and hurricanes in Florida.

Pompano Grill is a nice spot. Others are Fat Snook and Flavour Kitchen. Both on A1A. Flavour is just shy of Minutemen Causeway and Fat Snook is south of Downtown.

There are a few bars that have opened up recently downtown including Area 142 and Category 5. St. Patrick's Day should be wild as several bars will have bands in addition to the monthly Cocoa Beach Street Festival.
We have a small condo in Cape Canaveral and are out on the Space Coast every weekend - husband likes to fish out of Port Canaveral. A1A is crazy from mid-morning until dinner time from January through the end of March. It’s doable most of the time unless you have to drive a lot. We just avoid the pier (tourist trap) and Ron Jon’s (nothing but a store) area.

By the way the Air Force’s Thunderbirds will be flying out of Patrick Space Force base on April 15-16
 

HuskyHawk

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I'm in Pawleys Island, SC this week. Southern part of Myrtle Beach area.

We drove up Saturday and when we got on I-95 heading north from Jax to Georgia to South Carolina, 75% of the plated were PA, NJ, NY, Canada and other northern states.

You go from tourist season to snowbird season almost seamlessly now. There isn't much of an off season for any of these beach or coastal areas.

Somewhat relevant, we have run into so many northerners while down here for golf. Retirees that have moved fro Mass, CT, NY, and NJ.

Sunday my group was eating at a mom and pop diner for breakfast and the guy at the table next to us strikes up a conversation. Turns out he was a retiree from Mass and lived on the sixth hole of the course we were playing Sunday. When wee came byvthe sixth hole he was in the backyard and gave us each a beer.
Yeah, I know from where my parents are on Dataw that it went from houses lingering on the market for a year to selling in days, and prices are up significantly. Seems to have hit everything along the coast, and those people will mostly be from northeast and Midwest.

I should have done this sooner, obviously. But then that’s true of buying on Cape Cod too. Thanks @HuskyNan and @HCCForever, helpful stuff. I’m probably ok in lad de da, rich people gated communities to some extent. But I certainly would want a little more excitement nearby. Will have to see what appeals when I get there. I went to spring break Cocoa Beach back in 1987, that was the only time I’ve been there.

I haven’t really thought about inland communities that are less than an hour to the beach, but if there was a good one that might be an option. Would want my own pool and some level of amenities and activities. It’d be cheaper if we are snowbirds.
 

HuskyNan

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Yeah, I know from where my parents are on Dataw that it went from houses lingering on the market for a year to selling in days, and prices are up significantly. Seems to have hit everything along the coast, and those people will mostly be from northeast and Midwest.

I should have done this sooner, obviously. But then that’s true of buying on Cape Cod too. Thanks @HuskyNan and @HCCForever, helpful stuff. I’m probably ok in lad de da, rich people gated communities to some extent. But I certainly would want a little more excitement nearby. Will have to see what appeals when I get there. I went to spring break Cocoa Beach back in 1987, that was the only time I’ve been there.

I haven’t really thought about inland communities that are less than an hour to the beach, but if there was a good one that might be an option. Would want my own pool and some level of amenities and activities. It’d be cheaper if we are snowbirds.
We considered Fernandina Beach but it’s an hour+ to Jacksonville, which we didn’t like much. The city has no energy at all and Jacksonville Beach is not a nice place. It’s filled with hookah places and tattoo parlors.

St Augustine is also pretty far from any city as is New Smyrna Beach. That’s why we moved to Orlando. My husband travels for work and the airport is 25 minutes away. Where we live, we’re 15 minutes from downtown, 25 minutes from UCF (I got to see all UConn teams there until the Huskies moved to the Big East), and the beaches are an easy 45 minutes drive. There are so many lakes in Florida it’s hard to get away from one and we can walk a block to be around the water here in the heart of the city.

It’s all in what you want. We wanted the ability to travel, night life, music (the Philharmonic, rock concerts), entertainment (Broadway shows at the Dr Phillips Center), sports, outdoor activities, and a mix of age groups. We are so not retirement home types (the Villages :eek:).
 

HuskyHawk

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We considered Fernandina Beach but it’s an hour+ to Jacksonville, which we didn’t like much. The city has no energy at all and Jacksonville Beach is not a nice place. It’s filled with hookah places and tattoo parlors.

St Augustine is also pretty far from any city as is New Smyrna Beach. That’s why we moved to Orlando. My husband travels for work and the airport is 25 minutes away. Where we live, we’re 15 minutes from downtown, 25 minutes from UCF (I got to see all UConn teams there until the Huskies moved to the Big East), and the beaches are an easy 45 minutes drive. There are so many lakes in Florida it’s hard to get away from one and we can walk a block to be around the water here in the heart of the city.

It’s all in what you want. We wanted the ability to travel, night life, music (the Philharmonic, rock concerts), entertainment (Broadway shows at the Dr Phillips Center), sports, outdoor activities, and a mix of age groups. We are so not retirement home types (the Villages :eek:).
I'm torn a bit. I don't want the Villages. But I've seen my parents make a lot of friends and have a lot of activities on their gated island community in SC. It's not quite so old there (even if they are now). Rock concerts matter, was hoping Jacksonville might have some of that. But I also like seeing small local bands, so placed with live music at Breweries or bars is appealing. At Saint Simons we'd be an hour from Savannah, which can certainly be fun. But maybe being an hour+ to JAX isn't all that useful except for flights and an NFL team. We will see how it goes. We've been to Orlando for Disney and Universal. It's a little busy and built up for every day, but I don't really know downtown at all. I do like the appeal of the lakes, even if I question the wisdom of going in the water. They aren't like lakes here in Mass.

Next stop might be all the areas around Tampa/St. Pete, or the islands directly east of Savannah which are only 15 minutes to the city. That would leave us far from any major city though.
 
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Moved down to Nocatee a couple years back. We’re 15 minutes from ST. Augustine. My wife works at Our Lady of La Leche in ST. Augustine on weekends. It’s where Pedro Menendez and the Spanish landed in September 1565. You might want to check that out. Also, a good restaurant is the River & Fort. Food is good and they have rooftop seating over looking the the Fort. There is rooftop seating on a couple of different levels. Husky Nan is right, The Tini Martini Bar is alot of fun. Highly recommend that as well. Oh, and on Cumberland Island there are wild horses which is kind of cool. Have fun!
 

storrsroars

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I haven’t really thought about inland communities that are less than an hour to the beach, but if there was a good one that might be an option. Would want my own pool and some level of amenities and activities. It’d be cheaper if we are snowbirds.
Perhaps consider Bluffton, SC?
 

HuskyHawk

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Perhaps consider Bluffton, SC?
I know Bluffton well. That's near enough to my parents. That's a bit too generic and not really near anything (including any beach). It's a solid budget location if you want to get warm and golf. It's been amazing watching it grow from absolutely nothing back in the 80's and 90's.
 

storrsroars

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I know Bluffton well. That's near enough to my parents. That's a bit too generic and not really near anything (including any beach). It's a solid budget location if you want to get warm and golf. It's been amazing watching it grow from absolutely nothing back in the 80's and 90's
I've actually never been. I mentioned it because a first cousin moved there in early 90s. Unlike me, he was half Italian and often acted like a mob stereotype. Definitely not the rural retiring type. He loved it down there. Always planned to visit as he was a fun time, but he passed couple of years ago after a long illness.
 

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