OT: New lawn questions

[Waquoit]

The good news is that the crappy, dying trees have been removed from the front lawn. The bad news is that the horrible lawn is much more visible. What's the play, get new sod put down? Or can a new lawn be a self-help project? Go out and dig out all the moss and crap and plant seed? Anyone have experience with this? Thanks.

 

[temery]

The good news is that the crappy, dying trees have been removed from the front lawn. The bad news is that the horrible lawn is much more visible. What's the play, get new sod put down? Or can a new lawn be a self-help project? Go out and dig out all the moss and crap and plant seed? Anyone have experience with this? Thanks.

I'm going through the same thing. I'm looking to have a top dressing of loam, and then hydroseeded. Someone posted this summer about some super seed that is drought proof, and handles extremes in temp, etc. I'll look into that this spring.

 

[HuskyHawk]

I'm going through the same thing. I'm looking to have a top dressing of loam, and then hydroseeded. Someone posted this summer about some super seed that is drought proof, and handles extremes in temp, etc. I'll look into that this spring.

All modern seed is way better than what is likely already growing there (or not growing). Nothing is drought proof or immune to disease, but the new stuff is more drought and disease resistant. I had a layer of screened loam put down in the fall of 2015 with seed. It was glorious in the spring. The lack of deep roots in that fairly new grass meant that this summer's drought did a number on it. Some of it did come back this fall. Sod wouldn't have that problem, but costs much more.

Long story short, loam plus modern grass seed is good, but water it consistently all year long. Don't expect drought resistance in young grass with a shallow root system.

 

[temery]

All modern seed is way better than what is likely already growing there (or not growing). Nothing is drought proof or immune to disease, but the new stuff is more drought and disease resistant. I had a layer of screened loam put down in the fall of 2015 with seed. It was glorious in the spring. The lack of deep roots in that fairly new grass meant that this summer's drought did a number on it. Some of it did come back this fall. Sod wouldn't have that problem, but costs much more.

Long story short, loam plus modern grass seed is good, but water it consistently all year long. Don't expect drought resistance in young grass with a shallow root system.

I'm lucky enough to still have well water available, and plan a diy sprinkler system. A good back up is using a pump and get water from the swamp in the back of my property. In the spring time it tend to get closed with frog and salamander eggs, with that's a small price to pay for free water (jk)!

 

[jibsey]

The big mistake I made with my lawn when my house was built was not having good enough top soil or loam put in because my soil was crap. Finances prevented that at the time but I guess 6 or more inches of that would have made a huge difference. There can be a huge difference in top soil that is sold by places (bought some not so great) so if anyone knows where to find the gold let us all know.

 

[HuskyHawk]

I'm lucky enough to still have well water available, and plan a diy sprinkler system.

I have well water and irrigation, but it was so freaking dry that I was concerned about killing the well. A neighbor did that a few years ago. I watered, but not enough apparently. Hopefully this year is normal.

 

[8893]

If the moss is green, be happy and leave it alone. Low maintenance and you'll avoid spending a ton of time and/or money trying to grow and take care of a good lawn.

 

[Waquoit]

If the moss is green, be happy and leave it alone.

If only. We got that red stuff that looks like sea urchins.

 

[temery]

I have well water and irrigation, but it was so freaking dry that I was concerned about killing the well. A neighbor did that a few years ago. I watered, but not enough apparently. Hopefully this year is normal.

I have town water from Quabbin for household use. The well is for my lawn and garden.

 

[06029]

The good news is that the crappy, dying trees have been removed from the front lawn. The bad news is that the horrible lawn is much more visible. What's the play, get new sod put down? Or can a new lawn be a self-help project? Go out and dig out all the moss and crap and plant seed? Anyone have experience with this? Thanks.

You missed the optimal new seeding time in mid-September. Your biggest issue with the spring reseed plan is not disturbing the soil excessively and stirring up the crab grass and weed seeds already in the ground and bringing them to the surface where they germinate better. Hydro seeding is the answer in the spring but you need to hope that there is no huge storm that drops over 2" of rain in 24 hours within the first week after the hydro seeding that could wash most of it away.

I had a major lawn renovation that started this past May because I was losing the crabgrass and weed battle after 22 years. It looked like crap up all year until re-seeding in September and is good shape for next year. I went with an organic regime (we have multiple bee hives and a huge vegetable garden) with a reputable contractor. The spring and summer (6 feedings in all) was all about getting the soil ph correct, adding to the existing good grass strength and waiting for the crabgrass and weeds to die in the summer heat. Around Sept 15 he used this great machine that ripped up all the dead material, left the decent grass, slit the lawn and seeded. He slit seeded the lawn in two directions perpendicular to each other and also used a hand machine around all garden bed and places the larger machine could not reach. There was a lot of seed put down, way more than the seed calculator from Lowes recommends. No mulch covering. Lawn filled in great with regular watering the first 2 weeks. Liquid compost added November 1. Spring plan is a non-organic pre-emergent (before anything flowers so it will not impact the bees), some minor spot re-seeding and then a 6 visit feeding and spot weed treatment plan over the growing season.

If you live in central/north central CT call Harringtons Organic lawn care. They are worth the time and money and I am not affiliated with them in any way. My neighbor has been on the DIY path for the last 3 years and his lawn is still loaded with crabgrass and weeds because of the spring time mistake he made in 2013 He chewed up his whole lawn, added new loan and put down a bunch of seed and covered it with a hay mat. More crabgrass than grass came up. He also burned half it out this past year with an over application of fertilizer in June. He is using my guy next year.

 

[sledog]

Ive had same issues. Looks great until 4th of July. Then,... not so much

I used a lot of organics this year, including calcium oriented lime. Looked better.

But I took a flyer this fall and dropped a lot of Pearl's Premium grass seed. SUPPOSEDLY it grows very deep roots, and thickens to block weeds. Also grows slowly. So very little water needed ($ saver) , mow once / month ($ saver), and weeds are minimal ($ saver). Too good to be true? We'll see.

Lawn and Grass Seed for Ultra Low Maintenance Lawns Pearl's Premium

 

[Robertelamin]

My friend also tried to reseed in the spring and the crabgrass just out competed the grass. I've read that some people just kill everything in the lawn. Wait a few weeks for remaining weed seeds to germinate and then kill it all again. After that they seed with grass.

On the other hand, I used a lawn service last year (don't judge me!) but by the time they came to aerate and over seed in the fall, the leaves had already started falling and was too late. So don't wait too long in the fall either.

 

[Chin Diesel]

I'm going through the same thing. I'm looking to have a top dressing of loam, and then hydroseeded. Someone posted this summer about some super seed that is drought proof, and handles extremes in temp, etc. I'll look into that this spring.

My knowledge of lawn is limited to I don't if the word "loam" is a typo or if it is a legit term.

 

[UC313]

Id say first things first, sample your soil. Uconn will do it for like $5. Ya gotta know what your dirts doing before getting anything to grow well. Moss tells me youve got an acidic and (previously) shady environment.

 

[boba]

Id say first things first, sample your soil. Uconn will do it for like $5. Ya gotta know what your dirts doing before getting anything to grow well. Moss tells me youve got an acidic and (previously) shady environment.

And possibly drainage problems. Soil is 3 strata - A horizon, B horizon, C horizon. A horizon should be 3-12' deep and dominated by decaying organics with some fine clay particles and silicates (sand). That's what your roots are working in, gathering nutrients and moisture. B Horizon should invert the mix, more silicates and clays with remainder being decaying organics hold some moisture, and should extend a foot or two below the A horizon. The C horizon is mineral soil, clays and silicates either providing drainage or impeding it. It also is what tree roots are embedded in, and holding moisture for long periods of time.
If the A horizon is thin, then the roots have nothing to work with. If the B horizon is compacted, then you develop high moisture in the upper horizon, leading to your moss problem and usually highly acidic soil (decomposition of organics). If you drive a three foot pipe two feet into the ground and pull it out, you should have a really core you can visually inspect and evaluate. A nice deep dark brown going down a few inches then gradual change to probably a sandy rust colored soil is the ideal. The top soil should clump together with your hand while the bottom part should flow through a coarse sieve without much shaking.
This link might work... USDA
(and yes, my MA is in Geography, and I really like soil. Did surveys out in the Central Valley and reconditioned a crummy backyard with the worst B horizon one ever saw into a virtual black soil prairie in 4 short years - without a rototiller. Lots and lots of compost along with a healthy amount of clover.)

 

[Huskygamble19]

The good news is that the crappy, dying trees have been removed from the front lawn. The bad news is that the horrible lawn is much more visible. What's the play, get new sod put down? Or can a new lawn be a self-help project? Go out and dig out all the moss and crap and plant seed? Anyone have experience with this? Thanks.

Unless your a big fan of mowing your grass often, I think that the moss will help you avoid this thrill. I have tried plugs of Zoysia grass and it worked, but took many years to make a lawn. It is a low growing grass and is hearty to human traffic. the drought had some nasty effects on it this year though. Sod is just too expensive, but that is your choice.

 

[Devland]

Id say first things first, sample your soil. Uconn will do it for like $5. Ya gotta know what your dirts doing before getting anything to grow well. Moss tells me youve got an acidic and (previously) shady environment.

I bought a house that had the worst lawn in the state of Connecticut. I sent sample to the UConn soil testing lab and my plan was to follow their recommendations and correct the soil the first summer. Then retest the next spring make more corrections and overseed. During the the first summer the lawn started filling in on it's own without reseeding. I then retested in the spring and made smaller corrections and overseeded. Soil Testing Lab

PS Another option is to sneak into the Rent at night and steal some of their sod. I would take it from the end zone. That hasn't been stepped on too much. They do do a good job with the turf there.

 

[Husky25]

After I limed the yard, I had my company core aerate and superseed this past fall. I than ran the sprinkler for 20 minutes a day for 2 weeks straight (40 minutes because I had to move both sprinklers every time to cover merely most of my yard). Looks head a shoulders better than it did all summer.

I've come to find that the key is water and frequency. Crab grass thrives in the dry dirt. Real grass does not.

 

[Dream Jobbed 2.0]

I have a massive towering tree that canopies like the whole backyard. I desperately want to get it out of there and put in a paver patio and actually use the backyard. This thing stretches into the neighbors on both side's yards. I'm worried about the logistics of tearing up the entire yard and what it will do for the grading of the yard and house though. Tough time growing grass as is with all the shade but we shall see.

 

[NC_Uconn_Fan]

Google "around the yard lawn care forum". It is the best and most informative lawn care forum around.

 

[Excalibur]

The good news is that the crappy, dying trees have been removed from the front lawn. The bad news is that the horrible lawn is much more visible. What's the play, get new sod put down? Or can a new lawn be a self-help project? Go out and dig out all the moss and crap and plant seed? Anyone have experience with this? Thanks.

I've done both (digging/seeding and laying sod). To me, laying sod is worth the 15-20% extra cost. With seeding, you are at the mercy of weather conditions to a much greater extent. No matter how much straw you put down you are going to end up with a bare spot if you get a heavy rain, particularly if the yard is anything but perfectly graded. Seeding does give you the freedom to mix sun/shade grass types if you have a wide variety of conditions. You'll want to add topsoil regardless of which direction you go in.

 

[Hankster]

I have messed with my lawn since 1996.A constant battle. I find out a couple of years later after we built our home, the contractor shaved all the top soil and brought it elsewhere. An inch or two of top spoil was left. Also I live on the shale capitol of the world. In later part of April through May my front lawn could win awards. June comes around, constant sun and heat, and there she goes. Bare spots all over. I hired a landscaper and he does well. He starts from March all the way to November for winter fertilizer. My lawn looks fantastic. However, July looked like crap again. Those of you who have well water count your blessing. I am on public water. They are a good water company, however the sewer authority jumps in and cripples you. Not much rain during the summer.
I also am convinced there is no such thing as drought resistant seed. Fo get it. I used every kind Lowes had.

I am seriously thinking of taking the soil out, lay a couple of good inches or more of sifted top soil, then have them roll grass. That way I am done with it.

 

[8893]

I have never loved my green moss more than I am right now.

This thread confirms every instinct I have had about lawn care.

 

[Dogbreath2U]

I made a major grass growing effort this fall and will share a couple of things. I bought 8 cubic yards of topsoil from an orchard and spreading it evenly was a big job. I kept expanding the scope of the project, but one thing I found was that the grass seed made a big difference. Agway grass seed (shady and shady/sun mix) came up much better than Scott's seed with the coating on it. Much better. I will wait to see how it does this spring. The major focus for me was a section of ground on the side of the house that gets little direct sun and has been eroding down a hill.

I have had a billion acorns come down and they will be a pain in the *ss to deal with next spring and summer.