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Coffee is for closers. Only the paranoid survive.
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[QUOTE="August_West, post: 1978280, member: 1047"] I've also been a plumbing manufacturer's sales rep for 18 years. There are a few things to think about. 1. The bigger the urinal, the heavier. There are plate type carriers that you can install in the wall to screw the urinal hanger to, in order to make the installation stable. You will need to get the correct carrier to use with stud walls. Some have steel legs that go to the floor, but you don't necessarily need them. 2. If you are installing the urinal on a 4" stud wall, you most likely will have to use an exposed flush valve on a top spud urinal. There probably won't be room in the wall for a concealed flush valve/back spud urinal, which would be a cleaner look. There are many different types of flush valves, from manual operated, to sensor operated using either batteries or a transformer. While not as big a deal with urinal flush valves, water volume can be a problem. The inlet stop on the flush valve will be 3/4" IPS for a 3/4" supply, (1" on water closets) and if your bathroom is supplied with a 1/2" water line, the flush valve may not work properly/consistently. 3. Waterless urinals stink no matter what you do, so don't consider them as a solution to any of these issues. I can't imagine any reputable contractor would recommend them for a residence, but if they do, say no! 4. There are urinals now that are designed to work on as little water as a pint per flush. If you consider this, make sure the urinal and flush valve are matched. You don't want a urinal designed to work on 1.0 or 1.5 gpf, and a pint flush valve, or vice versa. I'm on the shoreline so I'm not selling you anything, but will be glad to help you avoid a pitfall if I can. [/QUOTE]
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Coffee is for closers. Only the paranoid survive.
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